Introduction to Dolpo Rara Traverse Trek
The Upper Dolpo to Rara Traverse trek highlights two of the most beautiful high altitude lakes in Nepal. Starting in the barren yet stunningly beautiful landscape of Dolpo, and ending in the equally beautiful Mugu district, one of the poorest areas of the country, this trek is as challenging as it is enthralling. Spread over three weeks, there are four high passes to cross as well as high, steep, narrow and rocky trails to negotiate. A good deal of this trek is done at over 4,000m with the passes being between 5,000 to 5,500m. The lakes themselves Phoksundo (3,641m) in Dolpo and Rara (2,980m) in Mugu are both turquoise jewels set in a craggy, rocky landscape, and in pine forests, respectively. On the way the route, part of the newly opened east to west Great Himalayan Trail (GHT), passes through interesting villages with a Buddhist culture closely linked to Tibet, monasteries and gompa, and the quartz studded Crystal Mountain.
The Upper Dolpo to Rara Traverse trek highlights two of the most beautiful high altitude lakes in Nepal. Starting in the barren yet stunningly beautiful landscape of Dolpo, and ending in the equally beautiful Mugu district, one of the poorest areas of the country, this trek is as challenging as it is enthralling. Spread over three weeks, there are four high passes to cross as well as high, steep, narrow and rocky trails to negotiate. A good deal of this trek is done at over 4,000m with the passes being between 5,000 to 5,500m. The lakes themselves Phoksundo (3,641m) in Dolpo and Rara (2,980m) in Mugu are both turquoise jewels set in a craggy, rocky landscape, and in pine forests, respectively. On the way the route, part of the newly opened east to west Great Himalayan Trail (GHT), passes through interesting villages with a Buddhist culture closely linked to Tibet, monasteries and gompa, and the quartz studded Crystal Mountain.
Dolpo is an area where the Bon Po religion (similar but different to Tibetan Buddhism) is still practiced and the majority of the people are more closely tied to Tibet than Nepal. Trade routes along which yaks and mules pass still run from Tibet to the lower parts of Nepal. Shey Gompa, a 12th century monastery, is often referred to as the spiritual heart of Dolpo, and is situated at the base of the Crystal Mountain, a long-standing pilgrimage area.
Mugu is the least developed district of Nepal, where its rugged landscape has meant it remains pretty much as it was in the past. With the opening of the GHT and a push towards local tourism, the beautiful Rara Lake, Nepal’s largest, is making its way onto the map. Rara National Park is the smallest national park in Nepal at only 106 square kilometers. As in the Shey Phoksundo National Park (3,55km2) which covers a large portion of Dolpo, there are several interesting mammal species in Rara National Park including the snow leopard, red panda, Himalayan black bear, musk deer, Langur and rhesus monkeys, among others.
Stark landscapes, alpine forests, green meadows, craggy rock faces, tricky trails, high passes, beautiful people and completely stunning lakes await those with the time and willingness to try out this section of the Great Himalayan Trail.
Dolpo Rara Traverse Trek Highlights
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Dolpo Rara Traverse Trek Itinerary
Day 1: Kathmandu to Nepalgunj (Flight)
Nepalgunj – 150 m / 492 ft
Your guide will meet you at your hotel to take you to the airport for your domestic flight to Nepalgunj. This flight is 50 minutes but one of the longer flights in Nepal.
Nepalgunj sit in the western Terai, which is the lowlands of Nepal. With its border crossing to India, there is a real feel of a mix of Nepali and Indian about the place. With its hustle and bustle of people crossing the border for business and trade, and its loud temple bells and mosque callings, it is a very different way to start your trek into the remote and high mountains of Dolpo and Mugu!
Over dinner, your guide will brief you about the upcoming journey.
nepalgunj
Nepalgunj, a vibrant city in western Nepal’s Banke District, sits at an elevation of 150 meters (492 ft) in the Terai region. It is a crucial commercial hub and a gateway to remote western destinations like Rara Lake, Shey Phoksundo, Dolpo, and HumlaDay 2: Nepalgunj to Jhupal (Flight) to Chhepak
Chhepak – 2680 m / 8792 ft
After breakfast you head back to the airport to catch an early flight to Jhupal.
At Jhupal airport you will meet your porters and camping crew who will load up supplies and your gear.
The rest of the way today is by hiking. After a quick cup of tea and a snack of course.
The trail is not too difficult today and once you have had your permits checked at Sulighat, you are officially in Shey Phoksundo National Park. Crossing over rivers and passing through forests, you come across isolated villages where it is obvious that Tibetan Buddhism plays a big part in daily life.
Chhepak
Chhepak is a locality situated in the Dolpa District of western Nepal, within the Shey Phoksundo National Park. It lies at an elevation of approximately 2,680 meters (8,792 feet) above sea level. Chhepak serves as a notable stop along trekking routes leading to destinations like Phoksundo Lake, offering trekkers a glimpse into the remote and pristine landscapes of the Dolpo region.Day 3: Chhepak to Chunuwar
Chunuwar – 3130 m / 10269 ft
Today follow the Phoksundo Khola (river) which you will cross a couple of times. On the way call into the Amchi Hospital. An Amchi is a Tibetan medicine doctor – someone who uses herbs and traditional healing methods and mostly works in area where Tibetan Buddhism is strong.
There is a winter settlement on this trail which is used by the people of Ringmo during the harsh winter months.
Once you have crossed the confluence of the Phoksundo and Yulung rivers you continue on to Chunuwar.
Chunuwar
Chunuwar is a small settlement located in the Shey Phoksundo Rural Municipality of Dolpa District, within Nepal’s Karnali Province. Situated at an elevation of approximately 3,130 meters (10,269 feet), it lies along popular trekking routes leading to the renowned Phoksundo Lake.Day 4: Chunuwar to Ringmo
Ringmo – 3612 m / 11850 ft
Ringmo is the closest settlement to Phoksundo Lake, and you will pass through this village on the way to the campsite nearby. By campsite, we do not mean there are facilities, just land dedicated to those who are camping.
The village of Ringmo has walls made of stones with Buddhist mantras carved into them, (known as mani walls), and chortens (stupas). You will get your permits checked again as you are now about to enter the Shey Phoksundo National Park proper.
Tonight, you will camp near Phoksundo Lake with its beautiful water, stunning setting and calm, spiritual ambiance.
Ringmo
Ringmo is a traditional village located in the Dolpa District of Nepal, within the Karnali Province. Situated at an elevation of approximately 3,612 meters (11,850 feet) above sea level, it lies near the southern end of Phoksundo Lake, Nepal’s deepest alpine lake.Day 5: Acclimatization Day at Phoksundo Lake
Ringmo – 3612 m / 11850 ft
Because of the high altitude, and because it is just so beautiful here so how could we resist, you will take an acclimatization day here by the lake.
You can hike around a bit, explore Ringmo village more closely, hike to the nearby Bon monastery, or simply relax while doing some simple yoga or meditation in this spiritually uplifting location. Bon is a religion similar to but pre-dating Buddhism. Very few Bon gompas remain in Tibet and Nepal.
If you haven’t seen Eric Valli’s 1999 film ‘Himalaya’ we suggest you go check it out before you come.
Dolpo and Phoksundo Lake feature in this film, as do many of the locals who simply played themselves in the film. Naturally there were a few professional actors – all with Tibetan/ Tibetan Nepali backgrounds. One of the real stars of the film was a native of Dolpo who spent his whole life there. He worked closely with the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) to preserve the biodiversity and culture of his beloved land. Sadly, Thinle Lhondup passed away in 2016, pretty much as dramatically as he passed away on film. (No spoiler alerts!)
Phoksundo Lake
Phoksundo Lake is one of Nepal’s most breathtaking natural wonders, located in Shey Phoksundo National Park in the Dolpa District. Known for its striking turquoise-blue waters, it is Nepal’s deepest and one of its most pristine lakes, surrounded by snow-capped peaks and remote Himalayan landscapes.Day 6: Ringmo to Chunemba
Chunemba – 3639 m / 11938 ft
Today you will circle the lake on a trail sitting high above it. The location is spectacular, but the trail can be very narrow in places due to landslides. Care must be taken. As the trail climbs up to a ridge there are fabulous views of Kanjirowa Himal (6,612 m /21,692.9 ft ), the lake, and Ringmo.
Descending to the lake, the trail then climbs back up and through a wide valley. You will be camping in an alpine juniper landscape.
Chunemba
Chunemba is a remote campsite located in the Dolpo region of Nepal, serving as a significant stop for trekkers on the Upper Dolpo Trek. Situated at an elevation of approximately 3,639 meters (11,938 feet), it offers a resting point amidst the rugged landscapes of this isolated area.Day 7: Chunemba to Snowfield Camp
Snowfield Camp – 4400 m / 14435 ft
While Phoksundo and other locations in Dolpo have been made famous through film, Snowfields has been made famous through a book! Peter Mathiesson’s book The Snow Leopard gave the name Snowfields Camp to this area. It may be interesting to read the book before you come for this trek. You have so much homework to do before getting on the plane to Nepal!
On this day, the Phoksundo Valley narrows so much you will be surrounded by high rock walls which may feel a little intimidating. Then there is a steep climb up through the valley to reach the campsite.
Snowfield Camp
Snowfield Camp, also known locally as Phoksundo Bhanjyang or Nangdala High Camp, is a notable campsite in Nepal’s Dolpo region. This site gained prominence through Peter Matthiessen’s book, The Snow Leopard, where he referred to it as u0022Snowfield Camp.Day 8: Snowfield Camp to Shey Gompa
Shey Gompa – 4310 m / 14140 ft
Trekking at this altitude can take it out of you. Especially when you have to spend the first couple of hours climbing over the high Kang La Pass (5,350 m / 17,552.4 ft). The reward for your tough climb is a panorama of peaks from the top of the pass. The downhill side of the pass is steep at first, then becomes more gradual.
The village of Shey Gompa is only a few houses big, while the monastery attracts hundreds of pilgrims annually. The monastery is considered the heart of Dolpo because it is near to the Crystal Mountain where pilgrims come to circumambulate around the full moon in July or August.
The Crystal Mountain gets its name from the quartz that is embedded in its base, and which shine in the sun, glinting like crystal.
Shey Gompa
Shey Gompa is a historic and spiritual Tibetan Buddhist monastery located in Upper Dolpo, Nepal, within Shey Phoksundo National Park. It is one of the most remote, revered, and culturally significant monasteries in Nepal, drawing trekkers, pilgrims, and explorers seeking an off-the-beaten-path adventure.Day 9: Shey Gompa to Bhijer
Bhijer – 3850 m / 12631 ft
Leave the beautiful Shey Gompa area behind and head to a small village that is a little off-the-beaten-track (even for Dolpo!). Like other settlements you have seen, you might notice that the livestock live on the bottom ground floor of the houses, while the people live above them.
Being the village is located in a more open location, there is some cultivated land where the main crop is barley. There is also a small school, shop and health post.
Bhijer
Bhijer is a small village located in the northwestern part of Nepal, within She Phoksundo Rural Municipality, Ward No. 5, in the Dolpa District. Situated at an altitude of approximately 3,850 meters (12,631 feet) above sea level, Bhijer is nestled in a remote and mountainous region.Day 10: Bhijer to Pho
Pho – 4087 m / 13408 ft
It’s a long and tough day today as the trail zig-zags upwards on a rocky and scree trail. Be careful when crossing the loose scree.
You may pass the deserted village of Potal as you descend down to the Tora Khola (river). Heading downstream you come to another steep uphill section leading you to the almost deserted village of Pho. It is said Pho is one of the most remote villages in Nepal with few people living there now.
You will be camping nearby the village, where the surrounding mountain views are stunning.
Pho
Pho is a remote village located in the Upper Dolpo region of Nepal, within the Dolpa District of Karnali Province. Situated at an elevation of approximately 4,087 meters (13,408 feet), it is one of the highest settlements in the area.Day 11: Pho to Pung Kharka
Pung Kharka – 4650 m / 15255 ft
The trail continues to gain altitude as you ascend to the Nyingma Gyazen La Pass with its scree slopes. The pass is high at 5,563 m / 18, 251.3 ft with stunning views of Kanjiroba Himal, the mountain range that separates Dolpo from Mustang. Depending on the weather conditions you may see Dhaulagiri, and Churen Himal. On the subject of weather, it will be extremely windy on this pass, so care is required.
After crossing the pass, trek on to your overnight stop at Pung Kharka.
Pung Kharka
Pung Kharka is a high-altitude pastureland located in the Dolpa District of Nepal, situated at approximately 4,650 meters (15,255 feet) above sea level. This area is a notable stop along trekking routes that traverse the remote and rugged landscapes between Phoksundo Lake and Rara Lake.Day 12: Pung Kharka to Chyandi Khola
Chyandi Khola – 4830 m / 15846 ft
There is another high mountain pass to cross today, the Yala La Pass at 5,250m / 17,224.4 ft.
First, after a good breakfast, follow the Swaksa Khola (river) to come out of the valley and ascend across a grassy hill to reach the pass.
Once again the views from the top of the pass are marvelous. After crossing the pass, descend into the Chyandi Khola valley where you will camp. Tonight, you sleep at a high altitude so check your body for any signs of illness such as a headache, dizziness etc, and report anything to your guide.
Chyandi Khola
Chyandi Khola is a high-altitude river located in the Dolpa District of Nepal, situated at approximately 4,830 meters (15,846 feet) above sea level. This river is a notable waypoint along the Upper Dolpo to Rara Lake trekking route, offering adventurers a glimpse into one of Nepal’s most remote and pristine regions.Chyandi Khola
Chyandi Khola is a high-altitude river located in the Dolpa District of Nepal, situated at approximately 4,830 meters (15,846 feet) above sea level. This river is a notable waypoint along the Upper Dolpo to Rara Lake trekking route, offering adventurers a glimpse into one of Nepal’s most remote and pristine regions.Day 13: Chyandi Khola to Takla Khola
Takla Khola – 3785 m / 12417 ft
With no defined trail to follow today, it’s a challenging trek through difficult terrain that requires fording a river a few times. You may have to climb above the river a few times to enable your guide to seek out the best route possible. Finally, you descend through a birch forest to the Talka Khola (river). Thankfully tonight you will be sleeping at a lower altitude so there is a chance to recover from this exhausting day.
Takla Khola
Takla Khola is a river valley located in the Dolpa District of Nepal, serving as a notable waypoint on trekking routes that traverse the remote and rugged landscapes between Phoksundo Lake and Rara Lake.Day 14: Takla Khola to Thaju Chaur
Thaju Chaur – 4050 m / 13287 ft
Yes, there is another mountain pass to cross today – Chyargo La Pass at 5,100 m / 16,732.2 ft.
It takes around 5 hours of hiking to reach the pass through a rocky and deserted-looking trail, but again the views of the surrounding lands are superb.
Descending the other side of the pass you enter a forested valley and have to cross several rivers to get to Thaju Chaur.
Thaju Chaur
Thaju Chaur is a high-altitude pastureland located in the Dolpa District of Nepal, situated at an elevation of approximately 4,050 meters (13,287 feet). This area serves as a significant waypoint for trekkers undertaking the Dolpo to Rara Lake Traverse, offering a serene environment amidst Nepal’s remote landscapes.Day 15: Thaju Chaur to Shilen Chaur Kharka
Shilen Chaur Kharka – 2945 m / 9662 ft
Plenty more rivers to cross today as you hike through a forested valley and into the Mugu Khola valley. You will come across a main trail used by locals to link Rara with Mugu village and Tibet.
Shilen Chaur Kharka
Shilen Chaur Kharka is a serene pastureland located in the Mugu District of western Nepal, situated at an elevation of approximately 2,945 meters (9,662 feet). This area serves as a notable waypoint for trekkers undertaking the Dolpo to Rara Lake Traverse, offering a tranquil environment amidst Nepal’s remote landscapes.Day 16: Shilen Chaur Kharka to Tiyar
Tiyar – 2418 m / 7933 ft
Today you are following the Mugu Karnali Valley over reasonable trails that connect local villages within the valley. The route is mainly downhill, and with the ever declining altitude this is a pleasant trek today.
Tiyar
Tiyar is a village located in the Mugu District of western Nepal, situated at an elevation of approximately 2,418 meters (7,933 feet) above sea level. This village is a notable waypoint for trekkers undertaking the Dolpo to Rara Lake Traverse, a challenging route that connects the remote regions of Dolpo and Mugu, leading to the pristine Rara Lake.Day 17: Tiyar to Mangri
Mangri – 1950 / 6397 ft
You have been on the Great Himalayan Trail for the past few days and will continue for the next few days. If you get a chance to meet a trekker doing this amazing 157 day plus trek across the northern part of Nepal from the Everest region to Humla, do stop to say hello to this extreme adventurer!
There is a longer version of the GHT that takes in Tibet, Bhutan and Pakistan that is currently under consideration for the future. Will you try it?
Meantime, you are heading towards the beautiful Rara Lake.
Mangri
Mangri is a village development committee located in the Mugu District of Nepal’s Karnali Province. As of the 1991 Nepal census, it had a population of 898 individuals residing in 181 households.Day 18: Mangri to Gamgadi
Gamgadi – 2095 m / 6873 ft
It’s another short hike today to reach the district headquarters of Mugu district, Gamgadi. Despite being the administrative and trading center of Mugu, Gamgadi is not a large town, but reflects the remoteness of this district. There will be some shops where you can stock up on any available goodies.
Gamgadi
Gamgadhi, often spelled Gamgadi, is the administrative headquarters of Mugu District in Nepal’s Karnali Province. Situated at an elevation of approximately 2,095 meters (6,873 feet), it serves as a central hub for the region.Day 19: Gamgadi to Rara Lake
Rara Lake – 2980 m / 9776 ft
Enter Rara National Park today as you hike towards this beautiful lake. There will be some ups and downs as you hike from Gamgadi to Rara but overall it’s a short day through beautiful forests.
Then there is time to relax around the lake, perhaps even going boating after lunch while the camp crew set up for dinner. Take in the beautiful scenery and take videos and photos to take away.
Rara National Park is the smallest national park in the country at 106 square km. Rara Lake itself takes up almost 11 square km of this. The park was gazetted in 1976 but in 2006 a large 198 square km buffer zone was declared to preserve the surrounding area. With 54 species of mammals the most impressive are perhaps the Red Panda, Himalayan Black Bear, Leopard Cat, and Himalayan Thar. Birds number around 296 species so if you love birdwatching this is an ideal spot for you. The vegetation of the area is mainly blue pine, with different species of rhododendrons.
Rara Lake
Rara Lake, nestled in the remote Karnali Province of Nepal, is the country’s largest and deepest freshwater lake, covering an area of approximately 10.8 square kilometers (4.2 square miles) and reaching depths of up to 167 meters (548 feet). Situated at an elevation of 2,095 meters (6,873 feet), the lake is the centerpiece of Rara National Park, Nepal’s smallest national park, established in 1976 to preserve the unique flora and fauna of the region.Day 20: Day Trip To View Point
Rara Lake – 2980 m / 9776 ft
After breakfast you can hike up to Murma Top which, at 3,800 m / 12,467 ft, provides you with an incredible view of the lake and surrounding countryside. What a wonderful view and experience! And let’s not forget the mountain peaks visible overhead.
On the return journey from Murma Top you can visit Murma village and the Chaprun Mahadev temple.
Overnight at Rara Lake – camping.
Day 21: Rara Lake to Talcha
Talcha – 2990 m / 9809 ft
After breakfast say farewell to Rara Lake, perhaps after taking another short boat ride and head out of camp. It’s a short hike through forests and over hills to reach Talcha where the airport is, and you will arrive by lunch time, unless you can suggest to the guide you have lunch at Rara and make your way over to Talcha – which is basically only an airstrip – in the afternoon.
Talcha
Talcha, also known as Talcha Airport or Rara Airport, is a domestic airport situated in the Mugu District of Nepal’s Karnali Province. Located at an elevation of approximately 2,990 meters (9809 feet) above sea level, it serves as a crucial gateway to Rara National Park and the pristine Rara Lake.Day 22: Talcha to Nepalgunj (Flight) to Kathmandu (Flight)
Kathmandu – 1300 m / 4265 ft
Say goodbye to your trekking crew as you leave the wonderful Rara National Park for the busy and crowded Nepalgunj.
Actually, there are two flights to catch today. The first being in the morning out of Talcha to Nepalgunj. The second being in the afternoon from Nepalgunj to Kathmandu. There is probably not enough time to make your way from the airport into Nepalgunj proper between flights, but your guide will find a good place for lunch. Then its off back to Kathmandu.
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Packing List
Hiking Gear
11 items- Trekking Poles Trail stabilizers, save those knees downhill! 1 pair
- Backpack With porter 25–35L, going solo 40–60L. 1
- Reusable Water Bottles Hydrate — and hug at night when it’s filled with hot water! 1
- MicroSpikes Grip it, handle icy paths like a boss. 1 pair
- Trekking Boots Boots for support, trail runners for pros. 1 pair
- Headlamp Keeps hands free — early hikes and midnight nature calls! 1
- Dry Bag / Zip-Lock Bags Stay organized and stash the stinky. 1
- Rain Cover for Backpack Shields your bag from rain and rough rides! 1
- Sunglasses Lose one, break one, still look cool. 2 pairs
- Sun Hat / Cap Shield your face — no one likes a sunburned selfie. 1
- Packing Organizers Tame your packing chaos like a pro-level trekker. 1
Garments
19 items- Base Layer Set (Thermal) A thermal hug for windy ridges. 2
- Fleece / Microfiber Jacket Like a wearable hug — light, warm, essential. 1
- Quick-Dry Tees (Merino) Sweat less, smell less, hike more. 3
- Quick-Dry Pants Dries fast — cross rivers, dodge rain. 1
- Trekking Pant (Soft Shell) Built for Nepal’s trails, tough and comfy. 1
- Trekking Pant (Hard Shell) Bring the big guns for snow and storm duty. 1
- Windbreaker Jacket Windproof your journey without packing bulk. 1
- Waterproof Jacket Because soggy trekkers aren’t happy trekkers. 1
- Waterproof Pant Wet pants? No thanks — bring these just in case. 1
- Down Jacket Your puffy cloud for chilly dawns and nights. 1
- Cosy Outfit for Teahouses Trade hiking boots for this once you’re in the teahouse. 1 set
- Socks (Liner / Trekking) Happy feet = happy trek. Bring extras! (3/3) 6 pairs
- Gloves — Liner Wear under gloves or for chilly tea stops. 1 pair
- Gloves — Windproof Block those winds sweeping down from the peaks. 1 pair
- Woolen Hat Block out wind and keep your brain warm. 1
- Beanie Extra warmth while sipping tea in the yard. 1
- Neck Gaiter Neck protector, face warmer, and style icon in one. 1
- Under Garments Laundry day is rare — pack backups! 3
- Bra Supportive and breathable for long trail days. 3
Sleeping
5 items- Sleeping Bag Sleep snug — from stars to teahouse beds. 1
- Sleeping Bag Liner Add warmth and avoid funky smells. 1
- Earplugs Snorers in the next room? Problem solved. 2 sets
- Travel Pillow Nap like royalty, even in the Himalayas. 1
- Eye Mask Sun’s up? Not till you are. 1
Toiletries & Hygiene
16 items- Microfiber Towel Dries fast, packs light — towel off in style. 1
- Toothbrush & Toothpaste Morning breath? Not on these trails. 1 set
- Wet Wipes No shower? No problem — wipes to the rescue. 2 packs
- First Aid Kit Leeches, scrapes, bruises — be ready. 1
- Sunscreen High-altitude sun bites — lather up. 1
- Blister Kit Blisters sneak up — treat them quick. 1
- Soap / Shampoo Bucket shower? You’ll still feel fresh. 1 set
- Lip Balm Wind or sun, protect those lips. 1
- Comb or Brush Brush off the dust — hair’s still happy. 1
- Period Supplies Periods don’t pause for mountains — pack well. As needed
- Nail Clippers / Tweezers Snagged gear or sharp toenail? Clip it clean. 1
- Toilet Paper Don’t get caught short — carry your own roll. Varies
- Sanitising Gel Sanitize before snack time, at every stop. 1
- Deodorant Feel fresh, even 3 days from a shower. 1
- Mirror (Optional) For grooming or checking windburn. 1
- Water Purification Tablets / Filters Turn glacier melt into safe drinking water. 1
Electronics
9 items- Camera Snap yaks, peaks, and village smiles. 1
- Phone Call home, check maps, jam tunes — one device. 1
- GPS Watch / Device Track your climbs, brag later. 1
- External Hard Drive No backup, no proof — save it all. 1
- Cables Juice up your phone, cam, or headlamp. 1
- Power Bank Dead battery? This keeps you going. 1
- E-Book Reader Books in your pocket — read and relax. 1
- Travel Adapter (Type D, C & M) Stay charged across Nepal. 1
- Earphones Tunes or podcasts — your trail soundtrack. 1
Miscellaneous
10 items- Lightweight Shoes / Sandals Post-hike bliss — slip into comfort. 1
- Gaiters Keep snow and grit out of your boots. 1 pair
- Playing Cards / Card Games Perfect for rest days or teahouse hangs. 1
- Multitool Solves (almost) everything in one flip. 1
- Journal / Pen Write. Reflect. Doodle. Dream. 1 set
- Repair Kit Patch up gear before it falls apart. 1
- Insulated Flask Sip hot tea in icy wind like a local. 1
- USD 15–20 in Nepalese Currency Tea, snacks, or surprise tips — always handy. As needed
- Snacks (Energy Bars, Protein, Trail Mix) Fuel your hike with tasty trail treats. Varies
- Electrolyte Tablets or Powder Beat cramps — fuel up with electrolytes. Varies
This packing list is a guide, not a rulebook. On the meeting day in Kathmandu we go through your gear together — anything missing you can rent from us for USD 1 a day per item, or we’ll point you to the right shop for your budget. Almost everything is available in Kathmandu, so first-time trekkers arrive light and leave prepared.
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Read before you book Dolpo Rara Traverse Trek
To help you determine if the Dolpo Rara Traverse Trek is right for you, we’ve provided detailed information on key aspects such as flight details, trek difficulty, and the best times to visit. Each section also includes a video explanation to guide you in planning your trip smoothly.
If you’re still unsure whether this trek is the perfect choice for you, feel free to reach out to us via email or WhatsApp. We’ll get back to you within 24 hours to answer any additional questions.
To reach the Dolpo to Rara Lake Trek you need to take two flights: one to the lowland western part of the country, the next into the high Dolpo region.
On this trek you will start in the Shey Phoksundo National Park and end in Rara National Park. In between you will traverse between the two districts and distinctive landscapes for 22 days.
You will be crossing high mountain passes, crossing rivers, and trekking through forests, dry landscapes and pastures. All the while the Himalayan mountains will be above you.
This adventurous trek takes over three weeks to complete as you trek through remote and often desolate countryside. It is a camping trek, where you will be staying almost every night in a tent.
Being that it is a long, arduous and remote camping trek, this trek is only suitable for those with advanced trekking experience and a great level of physical fitness. Sleeping at high altitude is also challenging. Prior camping and trekking experience is a must for this trek..
This is a trek for those with extensive trekking experience at high altitude and preferably while camping. It is not a trek for beginners, regardless as to how fit you think you are, or may actually be.
It takes experience and stamina to complete and enjoy this trek.
While there are some shorter days of around 4 hours, on average you will be hiking for 6 to 7 hours a day. Sleeping and walking at high altitude takes its toll on most people and you should be prepared for that.
By increasing your fitness regime before you come and following our guidelines on how to stay safe at altitude, you can help to mitigate any altitude related illnesses. Stay hydrated, do not go too fast, be aware of your body, and always let your guide know if you feel unwell. We do not know who will fall prey to the altitude – it has nothing to do with age or fitness level. That is why we recommend this trek to those who have trekked at high altitude before.
To know more about altitude related illness, check here.
Early morning at the camp site will look something like this: you will be given hot water to wash while in the camp chef is preparing breakfast. You will also receive boiled drinking water for the day. While you enjoy breakfast the guide will give you a quick briefing on what to expect that day, based on the trail and weather.
When you leave the camp you can expect to experience a lot of forest trails, scree slopes, rivers and villages, depending on the day and location. The landscape is stunning and varied throughout this trek, and the mountains are ever present
Lunch will be taken on the trail, and may be a packed lunch prepared earlier that morning.
The day continues with more hiking, perhaps passing gompas (monasteries) of which there are many. When you reach the overnight camp site, there is hot tea and snacks to enjoy while waiting for dinner to be prepared.
Minimum Number of Trekkers for this Trek
Permits for these areas are given to a minimum of two trekkers. It is also not viable to conduct a camping trek with less than two trekkers so keep that in mind when you are booking. If you are alone, please talk with us.
Shey Phoksundo National Park
Shey Phoksundo National Park is the largest national park in Nepal at 3,555 square km. The lowest elevation is 2,130 m / 6,988 ft while at its highest it is 6,885 m / 22,588.5 ft, making it very varied indeed.
Shey Phoksundo National Park’s climate is perfect for supporting unique vegetation such as herbs used in local medicines. Unique species of mammals including the Snow Leopard, blue sheep, and Himalayan Black Bear, and more, live in this area. A recent study (published in May 2024) has found there are 30 Snow Leopards living outside of the protected areas in Dolpo.
The Beautiful Phoksundo Lake
At an altitude of 3,612 m / 11,850 ft, Phoksundo is not the highest lake in Nepal – Tilicho Lake at 4,919 m / 16,138 ft is – but Phoksundo is the most interesting. Maybe.
Its remoteness makes it hard to reach, so anyone who does go there should feel very privileged indeed. Geologists think (unproven) the lake is the result of a massive landslide 30-40,000 years ago, which dammed the valley, creating the lake. There is some evidence that before that there was glacier influence in this area.
The lake was made famous by the Eric Valli film Himalaya which highlighted local life in Dolpo in a fictional work which lies very close to reality.
The Crystal Mountain and Shey Gompa
Sometimes referred to as the Kailash of Dolpo, the Crystal Mountain is located near Shey Gompa. The village of Shey Gompa is very small and surrounded by red coloured chortens (stupas). Its history is just as intriguing as its location. Mythology tells that Shey Gompa was built when a follower of Buddha arrived on the back of a flying snow lion to fight a fierce local mountain spirit. Shey Gompa was built on the site of this battle.
This is the most revered monastery in Dolpo, with the Crystal Mountain also holding spiritual significance to Buddhists.
The mountain’s name comes from the veins of quartz crystal on its base, which sparkle in the sunlight. During the full moon in July/ August many pilgrims come to circumnavigate the mountain.
The Stunning Rara Lake
Situated in Mugu, Rara Lake is already receiving more visitors than Phoksundo. Although also sitting in a remote area, it is possible to access Rara though a short flight, followed by a three hour hike, or by road from the western side.
Rara is the largest lake in Nepal and is surrounded by stunning forests and foothills. It has similar wildlife to Dolpo, and is a great place for bird watching.
Due to the topography of the lake, it is possible to go boating here or hike up to a view point to get a complete picture of the lake and its surroundings.
Rara National Park
Rara National Park is the smallest in Nepal, although it does have a large buffer zone. A buffer zone around a national park is a designated area around the core park area – a transition zone between park and communities. It provides alternative resources and income opportunities to locals who may, in the past, harvested what is now a national park. It provides locals with the opportunity to have some say in the park management activities. Overall, a buffer zone creates a healthy ecosystem.
There are very few larger settlements which can provide accommodation for trekkers in these remote areas. Camping is the only solution.
At the campsite we will provide you with a comfortable tent and sleeping mat, a toilet tent and dining tent. The chef will have his kitchen tent from where he will prepare good, wholesome food and safe drinking water for you.
We will try to make your camping experience as comfortable as possible. Mother Nature will have her hand in this too – from the star filled skies to the snowy peaks, right through to the icy winds!
Food at the Camp Sites
Breakfast, lunch, afternoon snack, and dinner are provided at the camp site. While breakfast, afternoon snacks and dinner are eaten at the campsite, lunch will be taken on the trail.
Meals are certainly plentiful and freshly cooked, we find it a good idea to bring some comfort food like dried fruits and nuts, chocolate bars, power bars etc from home. A bit of luxury for those long days.
Possible Menu While Camping:
Breakfast may be porridge with bread (probably roti – a Nepali flat bread)
Lunch and dinner can be pasta, noodles, dal bhat (Nepali vegetable curry), pizza, etc.
Afternoon snacks may be fried potatoes and popcorn.
We will not buy meat on the trail but will bring some canned meat / tuna fish. However, there is always vegetarian food available at every meal.
Tea/ coffee/ hot water is unlimited, with powdered milk and sugar.
We will not carry alcohol as we do not recommend its consumption at altitude. It’s just too heavy to carry anyway. Same goes for soft drinks – too heavy to carry. Sorry.
Drinking Water While Camping
The kitchen tent will provide you with boiled water for drinking. A Lifestraw is probably the best idea as it filters out some, not all, larger bacteria, and if you add sterilizing drops/ liquid to spring water it will be drinkable.
What to Bring for a Camping Trek
Take a look at our list of trekking equipment / gear you need on any trek. We suggest a few additional items for a camping trek, such as:
- Clothing for the cold at high altitudes.
- Portable solar panel (one which hooks onto your day pack) to recharge equipment.
- Headtorch with batteries and extra batteries.
- Medicines – any ones you take regularly plus items such as headache tablets, stomach tablets etc. And a small first aid kit.
- Four-season sleeping bag. This can be rented in Kathmandu.
- Toiletries in small, travel sized containers, and some clothes washing soap.
- Things for blisters and a few bandages in case of sprains.
- Nepali rupees in case there is something you wish to buy on the trek. There will be limited places to spend money on this trek but you will need money for donations at monasteries, and in the very few places that have a shop.
- Your favorite snacks from home or from Kathmandu.
Carrying Your Gear – Porters
Porters will be carrying the tents, kitchen equipment and food for this trek. It is also possible for them to also carry your gear. Please be considerate and keep your gear down to a sensible weight of essentials!
While Dolpo can be visited for most of the year (except winter) due to the fact it falls in the monsoon rain shadow, we do not recommend visiting Rara during the monsoon.
Therefore, the best time for the Dolpo Rara Trek is in the spring or autumn. Within these two seasons the best months are April to May (when its not too cold after the winter), and mid-September through to the end of October. By November it will be getting cold again.
Keep in mind that flights in and out of Mugu (Talcha airstrip) can be delayed by the weather (less so flights from Nepalgunj to Jhupal in Dolpo), and book your flight out of Nepal some days after the proposed date of return to Kathmandu.
Arriving in Kathmandu
If you wish, we can meet you at the Tribhuvan International Airport on your arrival, saving you time and effort. Just let us know on the booking form but please note there is a charge for pick up.
Hotels in Kathmandu
Included in your trek is camping accommodation on the trail, and one night in a hotel in Nepalgunj.
You will have to book your own hotel in Kathmandu (although we can advise you if you wish.) Booking.com and hostelworld.com will give you a selection of hotels in Kathmandu. Thamel is geared up for tourists with lively cafes, restaurants, bars and shops, and is a great place to stay while visiting. Our office is also in Thamel.
Explore Kathmandu:
There is so much to see in Kathmandu on a tour or simply exploring by yourself. Highlights of any tour will include Boudhanath (Tibetan area), Swayambhunath (also a Buddhist stupa) and Pashupatinath (Hindu temples and ghats). There are three Durbar Squares within the Kathmandu Valley, dating back to when there were three kingdoms in what is now Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur. These are among the 7 UNESCO World Heritage Sites. But there is so much more, from other heritage sites, to nightclubs and trendy hotel bars.
Visa for Nepal
Visa on arrival is available for people from most countries, via the Immigration Department of Nepal’s on-line site. Complete the form, print it out and bring it with you. Bring USD cash (exact money) to make payment on arrival at the airport.
Visa on arrival is valid for 15 days, 30 days or 3 months and costs:
90 Days – 125 USD
15 Days – 30 USD
30 Days – 50 USD
For the Dolpo Rara Lake Trek you need the following permits.
Restricted Area Permit (RAP) for Upper Dolpo: – USD500 per person for 10 days. USD50 per person per day for any additional days.
Restricted Area Permit (RAP) for Lower Dolpo: USD20 per person for one week, US5 per day for an additional day.
Shey Phoksundo National Park Permit: USD30 per person for the duration of your trek.
Rara National Park Permit: USD25 per person for the duration of your trek. (SAARC nationals pay approx. USD10)
We shall organize these permits for you.
Why You Need These Permits
The fees from these permits go back into conservation and cultural preservation of the area to help keep the ecosystem for future generations.
It is also a way to keep track as to where trekkers are in the area. When you go through a checkpoint it is noted down, which is invaluable should you get lost between checkpoints.
This trek is quite a high altitude one, where you are also sleeping at high altitude. In fact you will be sleeping at over 3,000m / 9842.5 ft for around two weeks Therefore, one of the main concerns for this high altitude trek is altitude related illness.
This is, again, one reason we stress that to undertake this trek you should have prior high altitude trekking experience.
You can, however, take steps to mitigate the effects of altitude by being sensible and following a few guidelines such as drinking enough water to stay well hydrated, going slowly and taking lots of breaks. Our guides are trained in first aid and in recognising signs of altitude illness so do not hesitate to inform them if you are feeling unwell.
As experienced trekkers you know the risks on the trail and know not to wander off on your own without telling the guide, right? Always be aware of your surroundings in the mountains and let the guide know if you are wishing to go explore on your own.
Tips for Safety on the Trek:
- We know as experienced trekkers you know these tips; this is just a reminder.
- Bring your own regular medicines and a medical kit.
- Pay attention to the guide in tricky or dangerous areas such as scree slopes.
- Trekking poles for stabilizing yourself on risky trails.
- Do not go off on your own at the rest/ overnight stops. without telling your guide.
- Drink at least 4ltrs of water per day. While camping you will be provided with boiled drinking water.
- It is important not to skip meals. In case you do not feel up to eating, let your guide know and he will try to arrange something ‘light’ for you that day. And/ or that is when your snacks from home come in handy.
- Do tell your guide if you feel unwell; even slightly unwell.
- Have the correct insurance.
- Wear the correct gear. Bring waterproof gear in case of rain or snowfall even when it’s not forecast.
The cost of the trek, namely, transport, food, accommodation, guide and porters has already been covered, and because it is a remote camping trek, there really isn’t many places to spend your money.
You will need money for donations at the monasteries (gompas) you visit. It is normal, and yes, locals will do the same. Around Ns150-500 for each gompa is good, with some extra if you light butter lamps.
There is not likely to be any opportunity to buy souvenirs on this trek – but you never know. You might want to have money to spend in Nepalganj although your time is quite short there.
We can suggest you bring around USD5-10 per day just in case there is anything interesting to buy such as a soft drink, at any point.
What is Included and Not Included in the Cost of Your Trek
Transport: Four domestic flights are included in the cost.
Accommodation: Tented accommodation is included in the cost. The hotel in Nepalgunj for one night is included.
Food: When camping you will get breakfast, lunch, dinner, and afternoon snacks. In the hotel in Nepalgunj you will get dinner and breakfast.
Permits: The permits required for this trek are included in the cost of your trip.
Tips: Tips are not included in the cost of your trek. Please calculate the tips for your guide and porters. Tips can be in Nepali rupees or other currencies.
Before you come expenses: .
- Flight ticket, visa fee, and insurance.
- Trekking / camping gear, good trekking boots.
It is the norm to tip your guide and porters on treks. For camping treks, you also have a camp chef who you should also tip.
This is a long trek with challenging terrain even for locals (which most of our porters are) when carrying weight. Your appreciation of these amazing men can be shown through the tips you give them at the end of your trek. Your guide is also working hard to keep you safe, supported, and up to date on information about the landscapes, people, mountains etc. And you could not do this trek without the camp chef!
Please be aware, 100% of your tips go to the staff.
We suggest the following:
- Tip the chef USD200 as the norm.
- The tips for the guide and crew members are divided by the number of trekkers on a trip So, the larger your group, the less you pay as an individual!
- Tip the guide 10% of your trip cost.
- For the porters it is normal to tip around a total of USD150 for each porter.
Bardia National Park
At the end of this trek you will be back in Nepalgunj in the West Terai region of the country. From there you will take a 50 minutes flight back to Kathmandu.
If you wish to extend your trip while in the west of the country, we can recommend Bardia National Park. This is a place for wildlife safaris, much like Chitwan National Park but much more rural and underdeveloped. It is also the exact opposite of the landscape you have been hiking through for the past three weeks! A change is as good as a rest they say!
Bardia (or Bardiya) was established as a wildlife reserve in 1976 and was given national park status in 1988. Being the biggest lowland national park in Nepal at 968 square km, Bardia is home to a wide range of wildlife and flora. The area is sub-tropical so the forests are lush and the grasslands rich with mammals and birdlife.
There are 61 species of mammals and 513 species of birds in the park. Most interestingly there is a large community (the largest in Nepal) of Royal Bengal Tigers, wild elephants (who are migratory) and Gangetic dolphins. One Horned Asian Rhinos are not native to this area, but have been re-located from Chitwan National Park due to their success in Chitwan where the population is high.
There are a number of hotels and homestays around Bardia National Park and within the buffer zone area, offering a range of facilities. All hotels offer walking and jeep safaris into the park.
The park lies approximately 80 km / 50 miles from Nepalgunj and takes around two hours by private vehicle to reach. Most visitors spend 3 nights / 4 days there due to its distance from Kathmandu, although you are welcome to spend less or more time!
Should you be interested in visiting the park, please ask us about this.
**We can also assist you with other trips or treks around the country and in Bhutan and Tibet. Ask us!**
This adventurous trek takes over three weeks to complete as you trek through remote and often desolate countryside. It is a camping trek, where you will be staying almost every night in a tent.
Being that it is a long, arduous and remote camping trek, this trek is only suitable for those with advanced trekking experience and a great level of physical fitness. Sleeping at high altitude is also challenging. Prior camping and trekking experience is a must for this trek..
Diversity – Equality – Inclusion: Keys to a Great Experience
We at Magical Nepal are a team of highly trained travel enthusiasts.
We started Magical Nepal in 2017 and pride ourselves in growing a great team. From our climbing guides, trek guides, and liaison staff to our camp staff, porters and camp chef, we all love to explore and travel in the Nepal Himalayas. We also love to introduce our beautiful country to our clients.
We are committed to human dignity, security, and safety for all – for our clients and for the communities we visit. We are also committed to the environmental sustainability of the landscapes, flora, and fauna of the Himalayas.
We also pride ourselves on offering great value for money and a price guarantee – if you can find the same trek at a lower price, we will match it – guaranteed.
Please check the reviews from our past clients to see what they say about us.
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Dolpo Rara Traverse Trek Map

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