Baruntse Expedition

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Starts at: Lukla Ends at: Lukla
Trek Region: Everest Transport: Flight
Duration: 30 – 35 days Trip Grade: Challenging
Max Altitude: 7129 m / 23389 ft Accommodation: Tea House / Camping

Baruntse Expedition Highlights

  • Magnificent views of Mt Everest, Makalu, and Lhotse
  • Perfect for those with previous experience of 6,000m and who want to progress
  • See the three glacier valleys of Imja
  • Fly in and out of the infamous Lukla Airport
  • Trek the Hongu Valley to Baruntse Base Camp (5,400m).

Baruntse at 7,129m is a good option for experienced climbers who want to either climb this peak in their own right or who wish to gain further experience before tackling climbs over 8,000m. If you have Alpine PD+/ AD route experience (or have climbed Scottish Grade I/II winter routes) you will enjoy your climb on Baruntse better. This is not a very technically difficult climb but it is physically demanding.

Baruntse is crowned by four peaks and is surrounded by glaciers – the Honku, Barun, and Imja as well as being surrounded by some of the world’s highest mountains, including EverestMakalu, and Lhotse. In addition to the stunning mountains, this climb takes place in the Makalu Barun National Park Area. There are plenty of opportunities to photograph the unique flora and fauna of the area. The route also takes us through villages belonging to different ethnic groups including Sherpa.

The trip starts by flying into the iconic Lukla Airport (2,860m) from where the expedition team will meet you. We then trek for 10 days to reach the base camp where the adventure really begins. There is a 14-day window for climbing which includes acclimatization days.

This expedition will be following the normal route along the southeast ridge. Two camps are made on the Lower Barun glacier, at 6,000m and 6,300m. We will be using fixed lines on the ascent to Camp I below the west/ east Col. To summit take 7 to 10 hours along an exposed ridgeline.

After completing our climb we trek back to Namche Bazaar where we spend one night and have the opportunity to drink some beer to our success before heading to Lukla and back to Kathmandu.

The best time to climb Baruntse is either April or October when the weather is at its best.

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