Introduction to ar Phu Teri La Upper Mustang Trek
Nar Phu Teri La Upper Mustang Trek is for you if you love strange, often lunar-like landscapes, high snow-capped mountains, learning about new cultures, and seeing how people live in remote and often stark places.
Nar Phu Teri La Upper Mustang is an expedition-style partly camping trek with an average of 6 to 7 hours of hiking daily. With some high passes to cross and over 3 weeks in length, this is not a trek for the novice hiker. A great fitness and stamina level is required, previous hiking experience is highly recommended, and a sense of adventure and open-mindedness is pretty much compulsory to get the most out of this experience.
It is possible to do the Nar Phu Teri La Upper Mustang Trek in one of two directions, but the one we chose offers the best acclimatization options. Make no mistake: This is a high-altitude trek, with most days above 3,000m / 9,842.5 ft and sleeping for half a dozen nights at altitudes over 4,000 m / 13,123 ft. Crossing the Teri La Pass (5,595 m / 18,356 ft) is not easy but certainly thrilling.
This isolated trek takes you into Manang and both Upper and Lower Mustang. There are no settlements in some parts of the trek; you are alone with your experienced trekking team for days. In other parts, you will cross onto more popular trekking routes and encounter other trekkers and comfortable lodges.
The mountains in this area are particularly spectacular, most likely because of your proximity. The landscape ranges from forests, rivers, cultivated lands, and pastures to dry lunar-like landscapes with high rocks and cliffs reminiscent of Tibet.
In fact, this area’s main culture and religion is Tibetan Buddhism. You will visit Lo Manthang, the ancient walled city, home to the King of Lo. This is the spiritual heart of Upper Mustang and fascinating to visit. Equally fascinating are the sky caves nearby.
Note: A shorter trek into the Nar Phu Valley is also available with us should you feel this one is too strenuous and/ or too long.
Nar Phu Teri La Upper Mustang Trek Highlights
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Nar Phu Teri La Pass Trek Itinerary
Day 1: Kathmandu to Khudi (Drive)
Khudi – 2626 m / ft – 7 hrs
Today, you catch a local bus to Besishahar along the highway that leads to Pokhara but turn off well before the lakeside town. Then, change transport at Besishahar for a local bus or jeep for a half-hour ride to Khudi.
This small town is situated on the Marsyangdi River and has a few guesthouses and lodges as it is a popular stopping point for the Annapurna Circuit Trek.
Khudi
Khudi is a term that comes from Urdu and is often associated with the renowned philosopher and poet, Allama Iqbal. It can be translated roughly as “selfhood” or “the self,” referring to one’s individual identity, self-awareness, and self-empowerment. Iqbal used the concept of Khudi in his poetry to encourage self-realization and personal growth, urging people to elevate their own potential. In Iqbal’s work, Khudi is often presented as a force that one must nurture and strengthen in order to transcend limitations and attain greater levels of spiritual and intellectual freedom. His famous poetry collection, Bang-e-Dra (The Call of the Marching Bell), has a lot of references to KhudiAbout Ilam
Ilam, the tea capital of Nepal, is a picturesque hill town known for its lush green tea gardens and serene landscapes. Nestled in the eastern region, it offers breathtaking views of the Kanchenjunga range and vibrant cultural diversity. Visitors can explore Shree Antu for sunrise views, Mai Pokhari for its tranquil lake, and experience the rich flavors of organic tea. With its cool climate and rolling hills, Ilam is a perfect retreat for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike.Day 2: Khudi to Sirung
Sirung – 1220 m / 4002 ft – 7 hrs
You get your first introduction to Nepal’s suspension bridges today as you cross the tributaries of the Marsyangdi River. Watch out for some stunning waterfalls as you make your way up and down the trail. But mostly up!
The ethnic communities in this area are mainly Tamang. One of the largest ethnic groups in Nepal, they are thought to have originated from Tibet.
The name Tamang means ‘horse trader’ in Tibetan, which indicates this may be the case. Their Tibeto-Burman language is related to the language spoken by Nepal’s Gurung community, who migrated from Tibet hundreds of years ago. Sirung village is, however, inhabited by mainly Gurungs.
The mountains you get the best views of today are Manaslu and Ngadi Ghuli.
Sirung
Nestled in the picturesque landscapes of Nepal, Sirung is a charming village near Khudi in the Manang District. This area is a gateway for trekkers embarking on the famous Annapurna Circuit, offering stunning views of the Annapurna mountain range and surrounding valleys. The trek from Khudi to Sirung takes adventurers through lush forests, terraced fields, and traditional Gurung villages, providing a glimpse into rural Nepali life. With its peaceful atmosphere and breathtaking natural beauty, Sirung offers a serene escape for those seeking a deeper connection with the Himalayas.Day 3: Sirung to Jagat
Jagat – 1300 m / 4265 ft – 6 hrs
After breakfast, you follow the Marsyangdi River through a gorge. When you emerge from the gorge, you enter a fragrant pine forest.
Today’s mountains are Manaslu and Annapurna II, while culturally, you can visit Chyamche village. If you pay close attention, you may notice that Chyamche marks the end of the dominantly Gurung culture of the Lamjung district and the beginning of the Tibetan-influenced culture of the Manang district. Your guide will point out the now flat-roofed houses built in traditional stone.
It is likely we will stop here for lunch before heading on to Jagat.
Jagat
Jagat is a small village located in the Manang District of Nepal, which is part of the Annapurna Conservation Area. It is a significant stop for trekkers on the Annapurna Circuit, a popular trekking route that attracts adventurers from around the world. Jagat is situated at an altitude of around 1,300 meters (4,265 feet) and is known for its beautiful landscapes, traditional stone houses, and warm hospitality. The village offers trekkers a chance to rest and enjoy the natural beauty of the surrounding forests, rivers, and mountains before they continue their journey toward higher altitudes. As you trek from Khudi to Jagat, you’ll experience the changing terrain, from subtropical forests to more rugged mountain terrain. The route to Jagat also passes through several small villages, where visitors can observe the local culture and lifestyle of the indigenous people, such as the Gurung communityDay 4: Jagat to Dharapani
Dharapani – 1830 m / 6003 ft – 7 hrs
Today, there are more suspension bridges to cross and a green valley. Along the river, you will see a few waterfalls, the sounds of which are a peaceful respite on this sometimes steep and slippery trail with stark rock formations.
Today, you enter the district of Manang, and there is a welcome gate to greet you. Once you reach Dharapani, your trekking permits will be checked.
Dharapani
Dharapani is a small village located in the Manang District of Nepal, situated along the famous Annapurna Circuit trekking route. It lies at an altitude of approximately 1,960 meters (6,430 feet) and is a popular stop for trekkers heading toward higher elevations like Manang and Thorung La Pass. Dharapani is a key entry point into the Nar Phu Valley, and from here, trekkers can explore more remote areas. The village is known for its stunning views of the surrounding mountains, such as Lamjung Himal and Annapurna II. It features traditional stone houses, terraced fields, and a unique blend of cultures, particularly from the Tibetan and Gurung communities that reside here.Day 5: Dharapani to Koto
Koto – 2610 m / 8891 ft – 6 hrs
Following the Marsyangdi River, the Annapurna and Manaslu ranges loom over you as you climb upwards through pine forests.
Today, you will stay in the village of Koto, which has traditional houses. You have plenty of time to explore around Koto.
Koto
Koto is a small village located in the Manang District of Nepal, along the popular Annapurna Circuit trekking route. Situated at an altitude of around 2,600 meters (8,530 feet), Koto is a significant stop on the trail, especially for trekkers heading toward Nar Phu Valley, a more remote and less-visited area of the Annapurna region. Koto is surrounded by stunning natural landscapes, including majestic mountain views, lush forests, and traditional Tibetan-style houses. The village offers trekkers a glimpse into the culture and lifestyle of the local people, including the Tibetan and Gurung communities. The trek to Koto typically takes trekkers through picturesque villages, crossing rivers, and passing through forests of pine and oak trees.Day 6: Koto to Meta
Meta – 3560 m / 10826 ft – 7 hrs
Today, we branch off the Dhaulagiri Circuit, which we have been following so far, and start onto the Nar Phu Valley trek route. Another check post indicates this, which will ensure you have the proper paperwork for this restricted area.
This is a strenuous day of following the river, which we will cross again by suspension bridges and through forests. No suitable places are available, so you will have a packed lunch with you today.
After the village of Dharmasala, there is a steep climb up until Meta. From here, Annapurna II and the Lamjung Himal mountain range are in view.
Meta
Meta is a small village located in the Manang District of Nepal, which is part of the Annapurna Conservation Area. Situated at an altitude of about 3,560 meters (11,680 feet), it is often a stop for trekkers on their way to Nar Phu Valley or Manang while trekking the famous Annapurna Circuit. Meta is known for its remote and peaceful setting, with views of the surrounding mountains and the rugged terrain typical of the higher altitudes in the Annapurna region. The village has traditional stone houses and offers a glimpse into the local Tibetan-influenced culture and lifestyle.Machhermo
Machhermo is a tranquil village located at approximately 4,470 meters, serving as an essential stop for trekkers on the Gokyo Lakes trek. Known for its breathtaking views of towering peaks such as Cho Oyu and Thamserku, Machhermo offers not only a picturesque rest point but also a cultural immersion into the traditional Sherpa way of life. The village embodies the spiritual and cultural richness of the Sherpa community, with prayer flags, chortens, and Buddhist practices integral to the daily life of its inhabitants. For trekkers, Machhermo is a key acclimatization point, with a Himalayan Rescue Association (HRA) post offering valuable information on altitude sickness and medical assistance. Its strategic location makes it a vital part of the Gokyo Lakes trek, providing trekkers the opportunity to adjust to the altitude before advancing to the higher reaches of Gokyo, ensuring a safer and more enjoyable experience of the region’s natural beauty.Day 7: Meta to Phu
Phu – 4250 m / 11614 ft – 7 hrs
This is another long and strenuous day, and with the altitude now over 4,000 m, you may feel the effects on your body. Taking it slowly but steadily is the key to a successful trek today.
Leaving Meta, you encounter Buddhist chortens that this area is well-known for. In the distance you can see the Nar Phedi Monastery. Following the Phu Khola (river) there are more suspension bridges to negotiate, and views of Pisang Peak and Annapurna II to enjoy.
After the strenuous hike through canyons and along tricky rocky trails, and just before the final ascent up to Phu, there are the remains of forts, known as dzong, which are reportedly the remains of a Khampa settlement.
Khampa are people from Kham in Tibet who have a long trade history with Nepal. However, conflict arose in the 18th century over trade routes, political instability in Tibet, and Khampa raids into Nepal. Guerrilla warfare took place, but in the end, the Gorkha peoples, under King Prithvi Narayan Shah, prevailed and ‘retook’ Mustang from the Khampas.
Around the 1950s, with the Chinese occupation of Tibet, there were also some skirmishes on the Nepal border here with the Khampas. But history is hazy.
Phu
Phu is a remote village located in the Nar Phu Valley, which lies in the Manang District of Nepal. The village is situated at an altitude of around 4,250 meters (13,940 feet), making it a higher-altitude settlement along the trekking route to the Annapurna Circuit. Phu is often reached after passing through villages like Koto and Meta. It’s one of the most secluded and culturally rich destinations for trekkers who venture into the Nar Phu Valley, a region that remains less explored by tourists compared to the more popular Annapurna Circuit. Phu is home to the Tibetan Buddhist community, and visitors will find unique Tibetan-style monasteries, prayer flags, and ancient mani walls. The village is known for its dramatic landscapes, with stunning views of the Himalayas, including Himalchuli and Gangapurna, and the surrounding rugged terrain. The region is rich in both natural beauty and cultural heritage, offering trekkers a peaceful escape from the more crowded sections of the Annapurna Circuit.Day 8: Acclimatization Day in Phu
Phu – 4250 m / 11614 ft – 2 hrs
Now, you can really feel like you are in Tibet, with a landscape of layered rock and little vegetation. Here in Phu village, the locals either migrated from Tibet themselves or are descendants of those who did, particularly during the 1950s.
The culture of this village is still very much as it was in the past, Tibetan lifestyles and beliefs. The houses are Tibetan-style stone with flat roofs. The main occupation of the locals is herding, you may see herds of yaks, blue sheep, and goats.
The landscape around the village is dominated by the peaks in the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges. The hills are grey and stark, reflected in the stones used to build the houses.
After a leisurely breakfast, you can learn more about this area’s incredible history and take a short hike to Tashi Lhakhang Gompa (monastery).
Here you may be lucky to meet Karma Sonam Rimpoche. There is little available information on whether he is still living, so if you meet him, please let us know. The Rimpoche reportedly fled from Tibet to India with the Dalai Lama in 1959 before he came to Tashi Lhakhang Gompa.
If you are feeling energetic, you can spend around four hours hiking to Himlung Himal Base Camp, where you can see more stunning views and herds of blue sheep.
Day 9: Phu to Nar
Nar – 4110 m / 13484 ft – 7 hrs
Today, start early to trek a long path to Nar. Although today’s route is again challenging, and even tougher as you are still at high altitude, the sense of achievement is fantastic, almost as fantastic as the views of the Annapurna and Manaslu massifs you will see today.
The final part of the hike takes place after crossing Nar Phedi village. The winding path is relatively gentle and passes some interesting chortens (stupas) on the way.
Nar is an interesting village, with the traditional sitting alongside the new, quite comfortable teahouses with menus meant for foreign trekkers. Here again, the local population is mainly of Tibetan heritage, with Tibetan Buddhist customs and beliefs. You will find the Tashi Lhakhang Monastery and Nar Phedi Monastery nearby, which again offer an insight into Tibetan Buddhism. Terraced fields and green pastures indicate the occupation of this village.
Nar
Nar is a village located in the Nar Phu Valley, a remote and secluded area in the Manang District of Nepal. Situated at an altitude of around 4,100 meters (13,450 feet), Nar is one of the two main villages in the Nar Phu Valley, with Phu being the other. The village is often visited by trekkers exploring the Nar Phu Valley, which remains relatively less visited compared to other parts of the Annapurna Circuit. The Nar Phu Valley is home to a rich Tibetan Buddhist culture, and Nar offers trekkers the opportunity to experience traditional Tibetan life, with Tibetan-style houses, monasteries, and mani walls (stone structures with inscriptions of mantras). The village is surrounded by stunning mountain views, with towering peaks like Himalchuli and Gangapurna dominating the landscape.Day 10: Nar to Yak Kharka
Yak Kharka – 4400 m / 14435 ft – 9 hrs
After breakfast made by your amazing camp chef, start hiking through pastures and forests while surrounded by stunning mountains.
Yak Kharka
Yak Kharka is a scenic village located along the Annapurna Circuit in Nepal, situated at an altitude of approximately 4,000 meters (13,123 feet). It serves as an important stop for trekkers who are ascending towards the Thorung La Pass, one of the highest trekking passes in the world, located at 5,416 meters (17,769 feet). Yak Kharka is known for its wide, open meadows where yaks, the hardy livestock of the region, graze freely. The village offers stunning panoramic views of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri mountain ranges, making it a peaceful and beautiful spot for trekkers to rest and acclimatize. The landscape is characterized by alpine terrain, with sparse vegetation, rocky outcrops, and the occasional sight of traditional stone houses.Day 11: Yak Kharka to Lapse Khola
Lapse Khola – 4500 m / 14763 ft – 6 hrs
After breakfast, you follow the Phu Khola River, passing pastures of grazing yaks and goats. The trail is relatively flat at this point, but you will have to descend as you go further into the valley.
The views of the mountains continue to be spectacular, and today, you may encounter waterfalls along the trail, which adds to the beauty around you.
Lapse Khola is basically a herder’s settlement and it is interesting to see how the herders live daily.
Lapse Khola
Lapse Khola is a river or stream in the Manang District of Nepal, typically encountered by trekkers on the Annapurna Circuit trekking route. The term “Khola” means “river” in Nepali, and Lapse Khola refers to a smaller stream that flows through the region, passing through rugged landscapes, including forests, rocky terrain, and remote villages. It is usually passed by trekkers traveling from Dharapani to Chame, or from other nearby villages on the way to Upper Manang. The river itself flows through picturesque valleys, providing a serene and peaceful atmosphere to the region. While Lapse Khola is not one of the more famous landmarks on the Annapurna Circuit, it contributes to the overall beauty of the area and is part of the river system that drains into the larger Marsyangdi River, which flows along the Annapurna Circuit route.Day 12: Lapse Khola to High Camp
High Camp – 4900 m / 16076 ft – 6 hrs
After another breakfast made by your camp chef, as he does every morning, you set out to follow the Lapse Khola (river) to the open area where you will be camping for the night.
With an increase in altitude of around 500 m / 1,640 ft, care must be taken to observe your own body and that of your trekking companions for signs of altitude-related problems.
High Camp
High Camp is a popular stop for trekkers on their way to the Thorung La Pass, which is part of the famous Annapurna Circuit in Nepal. Located at an altitude of around 4,850 meters (15,912 feet), High Camp is the last village or settlement before attempting the challenging ascent to Thorung La, the highest point on the Annapurna Circuit, which sits at 5,416 meters (17,769 feet). High Camp is situated on the southern side of the pass, offering trekkers a crucial resting and acclimatization point before making the final push to Thorung La. The village itself is simple, with a few tea houses and guesthouses providing basic accommodations for trekkers. From here, trekkers get stunning views of the surrounding mountain peaks, including Annapurna and Dhaulagiri.Day 13: High Camp to Pasphu Khola Camp via Teri La Pass
Pasphu Khola Camp – 4730 m / 15518 ft – 10 hrs
It’s another long and challenging day. The Teri La Pass is 5,595 m / 18,356 ft and will take you around 9 hours to cross. You may start this day before dawn depending on the weather and season.
With scree on the trail and possible snow and ice, care must definitely be taken today. Crampons may be required. Again, on the descent, loose rocks may be among the moraine. As well as being an exciting day on the trek, with panoramic views of the Annapurna range, Tilicho Peak, and Gangapurna, there is a history behind the Teri La Pass
This pass was used as a trade route between Lo, now mostly known as Upper Mustang, and the Nar Phu Valley. Traders carrying salt and other goods traveled this route between the two regions. Imagine crossing this past hundreds of years ago in basic clothing and harsh weather!
pasphu Khola Camp
Day 14: Pasphu Khola Camp to Yakpa
Yakpa – 4300 m / 14107 ft – 6 hrs
Today, you might feel slightly relieved as the altitude and the trail are less difficult than yesterday. You have come out of the areas of stark rock and can enjoy some green pastures and meadows where herders graze their yaks.
The river you are crossing is the Pasphu Khola with its ubiquitous suspension bridges. As you near Yakpa the Samena Khola Valley you are trekking through becomes wider.
Yakpa is an old Kampa village – again, this area has so much history.
yakpa
The Yakpa are a semi-nomadic ethnic group native to the high Himalayan valleys of Nar and Phu, living in some of Nepal’s most remote, wind-swept terrain near the Tibetan border. Traditionally yak herders and high-altitude farmers, the Yakpa have adapted to life above 4,000 meters, where few crops grow and winters are long and harsh. They are known for their resilience, deeply rooted Tibetan Buddhist beliefs, and strong community ties. Pasphu Khola is located in the vicinity of the Thorung La Pass route, typically near areas where trekkers are making their way towards High Camp or Yak Kharka as they prepare for the final ascent to Thorung La. The river flows through a rugged, alpine landscape characterized by steep valleys, forested hills, and remote, traditional villages.Day 15: Yakpa to Tange
Tange – 3300 m / 10826 ft – 6 hrs
Crossing many streams, with Dhaulagiri sitting above you, you may encounter yaks and blue sheep along the way. It is worth noting that salt is found in this area, which puts it on the salt trail map of old.
Tange
Tange is a remote, windswept village located in the Upper Mustang region, often visited by trekkers crossing the Teri La Pass from Nar Phu. Nestled at an altitude of around 3,340 meters, Tange is one of Mustang’s most culturally preserved settlements, known for its ancient stone houses, intricate mani walls, and towering chortens painted in white, red, and ochre. The village is home to a small but proud community of Lopa (Mustangi) people, who practice Tibetan Buddhism and live off barley farming, yak and goat herding, and seasonal trade. The village of Yakpa is situated in a region that is known for its beautiful alpine landscapes, traditional stone houses, and stunning views of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri mountain ranges. The area is typically inhabited by Tibetan and Gurung communities, who follow the traditional Himalayan lifestyle, raising livestock such as yaks, sheep, and goats.Day 16: Tange to Yara
Yara – 3600 m / 11811 ft – 7 hrs
This is a day of ascents and descents, but you should be used to that by now! This is a rarely used trail, so meeting other travelers on the way would be unusual. The altitude has risen slightly over the previous day and will continue to rise for the next few days. So, care should be taken to stay hydrated and eat well to keep your energy level up.
Yara
Yara is a fascinating village located in the Upper Mustang region, perched at an altitude of around 3,650 meters, and typically visited after crossing the Teri La Pass en route to Lo Manthang or Tangye. Surrounded by stark cliffs, eroded canyons, and sculpted rock formations, Yara offers a surreal landscape that feels otherworldly. The village is renowned for its proximity to the ancient cave monastery of Luri Gompa, carved into a cliff and adorned with centuries-old Buddhist murals and chortens. Yara itself is home to stone houses, yak pens, and traditional water channels, and is inhabited by Lopa people who still practice Tibetan Buddhism and traditional agriculture. Tange is a picturesque village, often visited by trekkers on their way to higher elevations like Dharapani or Chame, as they make their way deeper into the Annapurna region. The village is known for its stunning surroundings, including lush green landscapes, terraced fields, and views of the majestic mountains. The local community, primarily made up of Gurung people, follows traditional agricultural practices, with crops like rice, maize, and millet being cultivated.Day 17: Yara to Lo Manthang
Lo Manthang – 3770 m / 12368 ft – 8 hrs
In order to reach the walled city of Lo Manthang in the Upper Mustang, you must cross the Dhi La Pass (3,950 m / 12,959 ft) and the Lo La Pass of a similar height.
Lo Manthang is the ‘walled city’ and was established hundreds of years ago. The Mustang Kingdom came about around the 14th century, with Lo Manthang as its capital. The walls were for defense as they controlled the salt route between Tibet, Nepal, and India.
Many gompas grew up in this area with the growth of Tibetan Buddhism. The 18th century also saw the isolation of Lo Manthang as the country of Nepal was formed more or less as it is today. With this isolation, Lo Manthang could retain its culture and traditions that still stand today. However, with the fall of the Nepal monarchy in 2008, the then King of Mustang, Jigme Dorje Palbar Bista, was obliged to give up his title. Although he died in 2016, the people of this area still very much revere and think fondly of him.
Interestingly, Mustang was only opened to foreigners in the 1990s. Today, the festival of Tiji, celebrated around May each year, attracts hundreds of foreign visitors as well as locals from all over Mustang.
Lo Manthang
Lo Manthang, the legendary walled capital of the former Kingdom of Mustang, sits at an altitude of 3,840 meters and is one of the most culturally and historically significant destinations in the Himalayas. Founded in the 14th century by Ame Pal, this medieval fortress city is encircled by high mud-brick walls and contains royal palaces, whitewashed homes, and towering gompas (monasteries), including Thubchen, Jampa, and Chhoede Gompas—each adorned with ancient frescoes, thangkas, and sacred relics.Day 18: Day Trip to Jong Cave, Chhoser
Lo Manthang – 3770 m / 12368 ft – 7 hrs
One of the highlights of the trek is visiting the five-story–high caves! No one knows why these caves were made or exactly when—it is one of the mysteries of Nepal.
After breakfast, it’s a straightforward two-hour hike to the cave, also known as the Sky Cave because of its height off the ground. Jong Cave is definitely a man-made structure with 40 rooms on different levels that are reached by a system of ladders.
In the distant past, sky caves around the world were used as burial chambers, so this is a possibility here too. There has been extensive research done at the Jong Cave, during which 27 human remains with cut marks on their bones were found.
Dated from the 3rd to the 8th centuries it is believed these remains underwent a Bon-Buddhist burial – like a sky burial, which still takes place today in places like Mustang and Tibet. It is also believed the caves were used as hiding places during wars and for storage and military lookouts. Whatever the original purpose, this is a fascinating place to visit in this dry, lunar-like landscape.
Returning to Lo Manthang you can spend the afternoon exploring the town and visiting Thukchen Monastery. Thukchen is the only monastery in the world with 108 mandala murals on the wall.
Chhoser Cave
Chhoser Cave is an ancient cave complex located near the village of Yara in the Manang District of Nepal, within the Nar Phu Valley region. This cave system is known for its historical and cultural significance, as it has been used by local communities for centuries. The caves are particularly important because of their association with Tibetan Buddhist culture, and many of them contain ancient wall paintings, statues, and relics that offer a glimpse into the spiritual life of the people who lived there long ago. The Chhoser Cave complex is built into the cliffs of the Nar Phu Valley, which makes for an impressive sight as it blends with the rugged, natural landscape. The caves are believed to have been used by early Tibetan Buddhists for meditation and religious purposes, and they are scattered in various levels along the cliff face. The site is also known for its mummies, which were discovered inside some of the caves. These mummies, wrapped in cloth and found in sitting positions, are thought to be of ancient Tibetan Buddhist monks or ascetics.Day 19: Lo Manthang to Dhakmar
Dhakmar – 3810 m / 12500 ft – 7 hrs
Leaving the historic walled city behind today we head through the arid landscape among the Buddhist artifacts such as mani walls and prayer flags. Nature has formed many amazing rock formations for you to wonder about – perhaps your mind returns to the wonderful caves you saw yesterday.
Dhakmar
Dhakmar is a village located in the Upper Mustang region of Nepal, near the Nar Phu Valley, and is an important stop for trekkers exploring this remote and culturally rich area. Situated at an altitude of around 3,810 meters (12,500 feet), Dhakmar is known for its stunning landscapes, traditional Tibetan culture, and historical significance.Day 20: Dhakmar to Ghiling
Ghiling – 3806 m / 12486 ft – 6 hrs
Crossing the valley and down the ridge, we leave Dhakmar until we reach the Ghiling Valley. The landscape continues to be stark yet beautiful, with its colored rocks and lunar appearance. An interesting feature you will see today is the Ghami Monastery, one of the oldest monasteries in Mustang. Here at Ghami village, cultivated farmlands are set among the high rocks.
Ghiling
Ghiling, situated at approximately 3,570 meters in Upper Mustang, is a picturesque village known for its Tibetan-influenced architecture, red-and-white chortens, and peaceful atmosphere nestled beneath barren cliffs. Often used as an overnight stop on the way to or from Lo Manthang, Ghiling offers a tranquil setting with traditional mud-brick houses, narrow alleys, and panoramic views of Mustang’s eroded hills and distant peaks. The village is famous for its red cliffs, which are a notable feature of the region’s geography. These red cliffs are often referred to as the “Red Monastery Cliffs”, and they provide a striking contrast against the surrounding green valleys and barren hills. The unique rock formations around Dhakmar make it a visually captivating location, drawing trekkers and photographers alike.Day 21: Ghiling to Chuksang
Chuksang – 3050 m / 10006 ft – 7 hrs
Today’s trek takes you from the windswept village of Ghiling (3,806 m) to Chuksang (3,050 m), descending deeper into the arid Mustang landscape. The trail offers striking views of Mustang’s eroded cliffs, desert-like valleys, and distant snow-capped peaks.
As you move southward, you’ll pass through Jharkot, Chele, and small seasonal settlements, walking alongside ancient mani walls and stupas that reflect the region’s deep Tibetan Buddhist heritage.
The descent involves some steep sections and loose terrain, but the lower elevation brings warmer temperatures and changing vegetation. Chuksang, located near the confluence of the Kali Gandaki River and the trail to Muktinath, is a charming village surrounded by apple orchards, red cliffs, and ancient caves. After about 6–7 hours of walking, you’ll rest in a cozy lodge and enjoy your last night in the culturally rich heart of Upper Mustang.
Chuksang
Chuksang is a scenic village in Lower Mustang, located at around 2,980 meters, where the arid landscapes of Upper Mustang begin to transition into the greener valleys of the Annapurna region. Nestled at the confluence of the Kali Gandaki River and surrounded by dramatic red cliffs and ancient cave dwellings, Chuksang marks the cultural and geographical threshold between the Tibetan-influenced highlands and the fertile lower hills. Ghiling is known for its stunning landscapes, traditional Tibetan architecture, and cultural significance. The village offers a unique blend of natural beauty, with the backdrop of the arid, desert-like terrain of Upper Mustang and the towering peaks of the Himalayas. The area around Ghiling is known for its barren hills, cliffs, and green valleys, creating a visually striking environment.Day 22: Chuksang to Jomsom
Jomsom – 2700 m / 8858 ft – 8 hrs
This is the penultimate day of this fascinating, awe-inspiring, and culturally mind-blowing trek! And there is more in store as you trek down to Kagbeni, which is situated on the banks of the Kali Gandaki River within the river valley. Here, you exit Upper Mustang and enter Mustang, and you are now on the Annapurna Circuit Trek route.
Kagbeni has a monastery, modern restaurants, and lodges that sit side by side. But perhaps most interesting is its covered alleys and strange clay figures found within the alleys.
After lunch here, you can continue your trek down to Jomson, a short walk along a dry river bed, or jump on a jeep if you are looking forward to the facilities Jomson has to offer!
Jomsom
Jomsom, located at an altitude of approximately 2,720 meters, is the administrative and transport hub of the Lower Mustang region and a popular endpoint for treks coming from Upper Mustang, Nar Phu, and Muktinath. Nestled along the banks of the Kali Gandaki River, Jomsom is famous for its dry, windswept valley, stark mountain views, and daily afternoon winds that whistle through the valley floor. Surrounded by the towering peaks of Dhaulagiri and Nilgiri, it blends Himalayan grandeur with modern trekking infrastructure. The village is surrounded by dramatic landscapes, with desert-like terrain and rocky hills that characterize much of the Upper Mustang region. Chuksang is known for its traditional Tibetan Buddhist culture, with monasteries and mani walls scattered around the area. The locals, primarily of Tibetan descent, follow Buddhist traditions and engage in agriculture and livestock farming, with yaks, sheep, and goats being common.Day 23: Jomsom to Pokhara (Drive)
Pokhara – 830 m / 2723 ft – 7 hrs
Unfortunately, today, you leave the Nar Phu Teri La Upper Mustang Trek behind and drive to the vibrant city of Pokhara. This is the final day of your trip, and we say goodbye tonight. We hope you enjoy the rest of your stay in Nepal.
Overnight in a very comfortable hotel in Pokhara. Dinner is not included, but breakfast the next day is.
Pokhara
Pokhara, situated at an altitude of 827 meters, is Nepal’s most beloved lakeside city and the perfect place to relax and recover after completing the challenging Nar Phu – Teri La – Upper Mustang trek. Nestled beneath the Annapurna and Machapuchare (Fishtail) ranges, Pokhara offers a striking contrast to the high-altitude landscapes—lush greenery, warm weather, and the tranquil waters of Phewa Lake. Jomsom is a popular destination for both trekkers and pilgrims, as it is the gateway to Muktinath, a sacred site for both Hindus and Buddhists. The town has a small but bustling atmosphere, with several guesthouses, tea houses, and shops catering to tourists and locals alike. The area is also an important hub for domestic flights to Pokhara, which take travelers over the stunning Himalayas.Day 24: Pokhara to Kathmandu (Drive)
Kathmandu – 1400 m / 4,593 ft – 8 hrs
After a well-deserved rest in Pokhara, your journey concludes with a scenic drive back to Kathmandu, retracing the lush valleys and winding hills of central Nepal. The overland route takes approximately 6 to 8 hours, depending on traffic and weather conditions.
Along the way, you’ll pass through riverside towns, terraced farms, and bustling bazaars, gradually descending from the Annapurna foothills into the Kathmandu Valley.
This final day offers time to reflect on your incredible trans-Himalayan trek—from the remote Nar and Phu valleys, across the towering Teri La Pass, through the ancient walls of Lo Manthang, to the comforts of Pokhara. Upon arrival in Kathmandu, you’ll return to your hotel and enjoy a celebratory evening or a quiet rest before your onward travels.
Kathmandu
Kathmandu, the vibrant capital of Nepal, sits at an altitude of 1,400 meters (4,593 feet) and is the gateway to every Himalayan adventure. A city of contrasts, it blends centuries-old heritage with modern chaos—ancient temples, UNESCO World Heritage Sites, bustling bazaars, and rooftop cafés all coexisting in a compact valley surrounded by hills. Jomsom is a popular destination for both trekkers and pilgrims, as it is the gateway to Muktinath, a sacred site for both Hindus and Buddhists. The town has a small but bustling atmosphere, with several guesthouses, tea houses, and shops catering to tourists and locals alike. The area is also an important hub for domestic flights to Pokhara, which take travelers over the stunning Himalayas.Are you interested on planning custom trip? It only takes 2 minutes.
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Packing List
Hiking Gear
11 items
- Trekking Poles Trail stabilizers, save those knees downhill! 1 pair
- Backpack With porter 25–35L, going solo 40–60L. 1
- Reusable Water Bottles Hydrate — and hug at night when it’s filled with hot water! 1
- MicroSpikes Grip it, handle icy paths like a boss. 1 pair
- Trekking Boots Boots for support, trail runners for pros. 1 pair
- Headlamp Keeps hands free — early hikes and midnight nature calls! 1
- Dry Bag / Zip-Lock Bags Stay organized and stash the stinky. 1
- Rain Cover for Backpack Shields your bag from rain and rough rides! 1
- Sunglasses Lose one, break one, still look cool. 2 pairs
- Sun Hat / Cap Shield your face — no one likes a sunburned selfie. 1
- Packing Organizers Tame your packing chaos like a pro-level trekker. 1
Garments
19 items
- Base Layer Set (Thermal) A thermal hug for windy ridges. 2
- Fleece / Microfiber Jacket Like a wearable hug — light, warm, essential. 1
- Quick-Dry Tees (Merino) Sweat less, smell less, hike more. 3
- Quick-Dry Pants Dries fast — cross rivers, dodge rain. 1
- Trekking Pant (Soft Shell) Built for Nepal’s trails, tough and comfy. 1
- Trekking Pant (Hard Shell) Bring the big guns for snow and storm duty. 1
- Windbreaker Jacket Windproof your journey without packing bulk. 1
- Waterproof Jacket Because soggy trekkers aren’t happy trekkers. 1
- Waterproof Pant Wet pants? No thanks — bring these just in case. 1
- Down Jacket Your puffy cloud for chilly dawns and nights. 1
- Cosy Outfit for Teahouses Trade hiking boots for this once you’re in the teahouse. 1 set
- Socks (Liner / Trekking) Happy feet = happy trek. Bring extras! (3/3) 6 pairs
- Gloves — Liner Wear under gloves or for chilly tea stops. 1 pair
- Gloves — Windproof Block those winds sweeping down from the peaks. 1 pair
- Woolen Hat Block out wind and keep your brain warm. 1
- Beanie Extra warmth while sipping tea in the yard. 1
- Neck Gaiter Neck protector, face warmer, and style icon in one. 1
- Under Garments Laundry day is rare — pack backups! 3
- Bra Supportive and breathable for long trail days. 3
Sleeping
5 items
- Sleeping Bag Sleep snug — from stars to teahouse beds. 1
- Sleeping Bag Liner Add warmth and avoid funky smells. 1
- Earplugs Snorers in the next room? Problem solved. 2 sets
- Travel Pillow Nap like royalty, even in the Himalayas. 1
- Eye Mask Sun’s up? Not till you are. 1
Toiletries & Hygiene
16 items
- Microfiber Towel Dries fast, packs light — towel off in style. 1
- Toothbrush & Toothpaste Morning breath? Not on these trails. 1 set
- Wet Wipes No shower? No problem — wipes to the rescue. 2 packs
- First Aid Kit Leeches, scrapes, bruises — be ready. 1
- Sunscreen High-altitude sun bites — lather up. 1
- Blister Kit Blisters sneak up — treat them quick. 1
- Soap / Shampoo Bucket shower? You’ll still feel fresh. 1 set
- Lip Balm Wind or sun, protect those lips. 1
- Comb or Brush Brush off the dust — hair’s still happy. 1
- Period Supplies Periods don’t pause for mountains — pack well. As needed
- Nail Clippers / Tweezers Snagged gear or sharp toenail? Clip it clean. 1
- Toilet Paper Don’t get caught short — carry your own roll. Varies
- Sanitising Gel Sanitize before snack time, at every stop. 1
- Deodorant Feel fresh, even 3 days from a shower. 1
- Mirror (Optional) For grooming or checking windburn. 1
- Water Purification Tablets / Filters Turn glacier melt into safe drinking water. 1
Electronics
9 items
- Camera Snap yaks, peaks, and village smiles. 1
- Phone Call home, check maps, jam tunes — one device. 1
- GPS Watch / Device Track your climbs, brag later. 1
- External Hard Drive No backup, no proof — save it all. 1
- Cables Juice up your phone, cam, or headlamp. 1
- Power Bank Dead battery? This keeps you going. 1
- E-Book Reader Books in your pocket — read and relax. 1
- Travel Adapter (Type D, C & M) Stay charged across Nepal. 1
- Earphones Tunes or podcasts — your trail soundtrack. 1
Miscellaneous
10 items
- Lightweight Shoes / Sandals Post-hike bliss — slip into comfort. 1
- Gaiters Keep snow and grit out of your boots. 1 pair
- Playing Cards / Card Games Perfect for rest days or teahouse hangs. 1
- Multitool Solves (almost) everything in one flip. 1
- Journal / Pen Write. Reflect. Doodle. Dream. 1 set
- Repair Kit Patch up gear before it falls apart. 1
- Insulated Flask Sip hot tea in icy wind like a local. 1
- USD 15–20 in Nepalese Currency Tea, snacks, or surprise tips — always handy. As needed
- Snacks (Energy Bars, Protein, Trail Mix) Fuel your hike with tasty trail treats. Varies
- Electrolyte Tablets or Powder Beat cramps — fuel up with electrolytes. Varies
This packing list is a guide, not a rulebook. On the meeting day in Kathmandu we go through your gear together — anything missing you can rent from us for USD 1 a day per item, or we’ll point you to the right shop for your budget. Almost everything is available in Kathmandu, so first-time trekkers arrive light and leave prepared.
Read before you book Nar Phu Teri La Pass Upper Mustang Trek
To help you determine if the Nar Phu Teri La Pass Upper Mustang Trek is right for you, we’ve provided detailed information on key aspects such as flight details, trek difficulty, and the best times to visit. Each section also includes a video explanation to guide you in planning your trip smoothly.
If you’re still unsure whether this trek is the perfect choice for you, feel free to reach out to us via email or WhatsApp. We’ll get back to you within 24 hours to answer any additional questions.
This is such a varied trek, with changing landscapes and accommodations, that there is no such thing as a ‘typical’ day on it! Which is exactly what the adventurous among you want.
Let’s, take a look at a day when you are camping:
The chef will prepare your breakfast so that when you wake up, you will be greeted by a cup of hot tea. Hot water for washing will also be provided. While you enjoy your breakfast and talk to your guide about the day ahead, the camping crew will start to pack up the tents.
A packed lunch will be prepared and carried with you in the areas where there are not settlements or no settlements with any facilities for trekkers.
After breakfast, head out for some descents and ascents along the trail. You may see rivers and streams, high rock formations, or crossings over mountain passes.
Over lunch you can take in the surrounding mountains and views and stretch out any aching muscles. Then it’s on again, through the wonderful landscape, to the next place where you will spend the night.
The camping crew will have already set up the camp by the time you arrive, and you will be able to have a light snack and tea/ coffee while the chef prepares a hot and wholesome dinner.
Over dinner there is time to reflect on the day before retiring to your tent for the night.
This trek takes you through Manang, Upper Mustang, and Lower Mustang and on to the lively town of Pokhara. You are in the area of the Annapurna mountain range yet far from the classic Annapurna area treks. We are starting this trek from Manang and ending it in Pokhara, but it is possible to do it the opposite way round. The reason we do it anti-clockwise is that there is more time to acclimatize to the high altitude this way.
Manang – Nar and Phu Villages
The villages of Nar and Phu are found in the Nar Phu Valley of Manang district. Both have Tibetan influences, as the inhabitants mainly come from Tibet. This influence is obvious to even the most casual visitor—the way the people dress, the style of their homes, the many stupas, gompas, and mani walls (walls of stones carved with prayers).
Another interesting fact is that there are some ruins of dzongs (forts), which are reportedly the remains of a Khampa settlement. The Khampa people come from Kham in Tibet and have a long history of trade with Nepal. They also have a history of conflict and guerilla warfare. Even as recently as the 1950s, there were skirmishes on the border, but there is no clear record of the facts.
The main occupation of the people in Nar and Phu and surrounding villages is yak, sheep, and goat herding. They also grow their own grains and limited vegetables. In the past they would have been traders, and perhaps some still do this business.
In Phu, you can find the Tashi Lhakhang Gompa, whose history is also long and shrouded in the mists of time and folklore. This monastery was built by some of the early settlers who came over from Tibet. In more recent times, the Rimpoche was one of the lamas who left Tibet along with the Dalai Lama in 1959.
Nar Phu, or ‘Narpa is a Sino-Tibetan language spoken in both the villages of Nar and Phu. As legend has it, this is to confuse the people of Manang!
Teri La Pass
The Teri La Pass connects Manang to the Upper Mustang and was part of the trading route between the Kingdom of Lo (now Upper Mustang) and the Nar Phu Valley.
Crossing the pass involves a long day of very strenuous trekking over precarious loose ground. There will be scree on the trail and possibly ice and snow which means that you may have to wear crampons. At 5,595 m / 18,356 ft altitude comes into play. Although you will have had plenty of time to acclimatize, it is a tough day. Staying hydrated and going at a steady, not rushed pace will alleviate some of the potential altitude-related problems.
As far as views go from the pass you see the Annapurna range, Tilicho Peak and Gangapurna.
Upper Mustang
Upper Mustang is one of the hidden gems of Nepal. Its landscape is completely different from other areas. Its high rock formations, often red in colour, and dramatic dry, lunar like landscape is – well – out of this world.
It also has a great history – it is said that Guru Rimpoche (an ancient Tibetan guru who travelled Nepal and Tibet bringing Buddhism to the people) stabbed a ghost whose blood spurted all over the rocky hills, thus they are red in colour today.
There are the fascinating sky caves – no one really knows their true purpose. Perhaps for burials, perhaps ancient people lived there, perhaps they were for meditation or for when fleeing conflicts. Or all of the above.
There are a number of colourful festivals held in Upper Mustang, mostly around the walled capital city of the then Kingdom of Lo – Lo Manthang.
Tiji Festival: This is held in the third Tibetan month, usually in May of the Gregorian calendar. This festival celebrates the victory of good over evil and is spread over three days. Organised by the Choedhe Monastery of the Sakya sect of Buddhism, this festival is of interest to outsiders mainly because of its colourful dances, music and chanting.
Yartung Festival: This festival is held to appease local deities so as to obtain prosperity and a good harvest. Perhaps it is also held so the young men of the area can show off their horsemanship! During this festival there are horse races held which cause a lot of excitement amongst spectators. There are also traditional dances and music. It is held around August/ September in Lo Manthang and nearby places.
Without taking camping gear, it would not be possible to do the Nar Phu Teri La Upper Mustang Trek. Yes, it is possible to visit both Manang and Upper Mustang without camping, but then you miss the more remote and adventurous parts. On this trek there are many days when you will not see any human settlements – perhaps a trader or two making their way between markets or yak herders moving their herds to new pastures – but no villages. This gives a sense of being on an exploratory expedition.
Despite sleeping in a tent, there is no need to be uncomfortable. We will provide you with a good tent, sleeping mat and plenty of great food. It will also be possible to take a hot water (bucket) shower as well.
Porridge
Tibetan bread
Eggs
Pancakes
Muesli
Noodles
Coffee/tea
Nepali Dal Bhat
Rice, lentils & veggies
Momo
Tibetan dumplings
Apple pie
Sweet trail dessert
Chowmein
Fried noodles
Fried Rice
With egg or vegetables
Soups
Vegetable, garlic
Thukpa
Tibetan soup with flat noodles
Rice Pudding
With egg or vegetables
Tea
Coffee
Soft drinks
fruit juice
beer
water
hot chocolate
- Stick to hot meals: Choose freshly cooked, steaming food to avoid contamination.
- Avoid meat high up: Skip meat at higher elevations due to poor storage and hygiene.
- Dal Bhat wins: It’s safe, filling, and often comes with free refills.
- Drink purified water: Always use tablets, filters, or boiled water.
- Pack trail snacks: Nuts, dried fruits, bars, and chocolate are great energy boosters.
- Go vegetarian: Easier on digestion and safer in remote areas.
- Adjust spice level: Ask for mild if you’re spice-sensitive — cooks can accommodate.
- Eat consistently: Don’t skip meals — steady fuel helps with altitude performance.
- Mind dietary needs: Vegetarian is easy; for vegan, gluten-free, or allergy-specific diets, bring extras and inform your guide in advance.
Breakfast, lunch, afternoon snack and dinner are provided while camping. Breakfast will be ready for you when you wake up, lunch will be taken on the trail, and dinner will be getting underway by the time you reach the camping spot. You can drink tea and watch the process or give a hand with setting up the tents and cooking if you wish.
There is no electricity at the camp sites (which are just flat pieces of lands, not organised campsites you might find in other countries), so cooking is done on a kerosene stove.
While the meals will be filling and good, we recommend you bring some of your own snacks with you for those times when you feel less energy or just need something more comforting.
Possible Menu:
Breakfast may be porridge with bread (probably roti – a Nepali flat bread)
Lunch and dinner can be pasta, noodles, dal bhat (Nepali vegetable curry), pizza, etc.
Afternoon snack may consist of fried potatoes and popcorn.
We will not buy meat on the way but will bring some canned meat and tuna fish. However, most of the meals we serve are vegetarian, with a vegetarian option always available. Please let us know in advance if you are vegetarian or vegan then we can leave the meat and fish behind!
Tea/ coffee/ hot water is unlimited. There will be powdered milk for the tea/coffee as well as sugar. No plant-based milk sorry.
We will not be carrying alcohol as we do not recommend its consumption at altitude and it’s just too bulky to carry anyway. Unfortunately, no soft drinks either as they are also difficult to carry.
Drinking Water While Camping
The kitchen tent will provide you with boiled water for drinking. But if you refresh your water bottles/ camel at places indicated by your guide, it will save kerosene. It is heavy to carry this cooking fuel so the supply is, if not limited, we can say ‘to be used sparingly’. If you are using spring water as indicated by the guide, please only drink it after sterilizing with your own drops or tablets. Wait the required 30 minutes for these to work. A Lifestraw is probably the best idea as it filters out some, not all, larger bacteria.
In a few of the settlements/ villages where there are teahouses (the name given to trekking lodges in Nepal) we chose to use them.
In general, in the more remote, less trekked areas, teahouses offer pretty simple accommodation consisting of sleeping rooms with two single beds and not much more. In the busier and more established areas such as Jomson, there may be attached bathrooms with your sleeping room. In other areas such as Meta you may need to share the toilet and shower room with other guests. And it might be in a separate building all together.
The food in the teahouses is standard Nepali, Chinese, Tibetan fare with some Western items such as pasta, eggs, toast etc. In the teahouses you will get breakfast and dinner. Lunch will be taken in smaller teahouses / teashops along the trail. If there are no such lunch spots, you will be provided with a packed lunch.
Teahouses in some areas will have WiFi access, hot water showers and charging points. You will be expected to pay for these services.
We can say that for any trek in the Nepal Himalaya you need to be in good shape. But some areas are more ‘couch potato’ friendly than others. The Nar Phu Teri La Upper Mustang Trek is not one of them.
This is a tough, strenuous trek requiring a good level of stamina and fitness and preferably previous trekking experience.
On this trek you will be walking for an average of 6 to 7 hours a day in very rough conditions, along loose scree, and perhaps over snow and ice. Exhausting in itself. But you will also be walking at extremely high altitude of over 3,000 / 9,842.5 ft most days and walking and sleeping for a few nights at altitudes over 4,000 m / 13,123 ft. When you cross the Teri La Pass this is highest altitude you will achieve, 5,595 m / 18,356 ft.
You may be aware that 3,000 m / 9,842.5 ft is considered the height when some people may begin to feel unwell due to the altitude. In Nepal, where so many communities live at higher elevation, we tend to acknowledge 3,500 m / 11,483 ft as being the danger point. Either way, you can see, this trek is not just putting stress on your muscles but on your lungs as well.
In order to combat this, we suggest you increase your fitness regime before you come and follow our guidelines on how to stay safe at altitude. Stay hydrated, do not go too fast, be aware of your body and always let your guide know if you feel unwell.
To know more about altitude related illness, check here.
Your First Days in Nepal
If you wish, we can meet you at the Tribhuvan International Airport on your arrival. Just let us know on the booking form but please note there is a charge for pick up. However, it will save you time and hassle at the airport.
Hotels in Kathmandu and Pokhara
Included in your trek are camping and teahouse stays, plus one night in Pokhara in a hotel. As the trek ends at Pokhara, any accommodation from the point onwards is up to you to select/ arrange.
Booking.com and hostelworld.com with give you a selection of hotels in both Kathmandu and Pokhara. In Kathmandu we suggest you stay in Thamel and in Pokhara in Lakeside. Both are the centre of tourist activities and have a lot to offer in terms of cafes, restaurants, shops and nightlife.
Explore Kathmandu:
Why not explore Kathmandu before your trek. Kathmandu is an ancient city, but you need to look for these ancient and interesting sights a bit harder these days as the modern city is growing. If you wish, we can organise a half day or full day tour for you so you can see the most interesting places. Highlights include: Boudhanath (Tibetan area), Swayambhunath (also a Buddhist stupa) and Pashupatinath (Hindu temples and ghats). There are also three Durbar Squares within the Kathmandu Valley. Durbar meaning palace. These date back to when there were three kingdoms in what is now Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur. With so many UNESCO Heritage Sites within Kathmandu, there is much to see!
Visa for Nepal
Visa on arrival is available for people from most countries, via the Immigration Department of Nepal’s on-line site. Complete the form, print it out and bring it with you. Bring USD cash (exact money) to make payment on arrival at the airport.
Visa on arrival is valid for 15 days, 30 days or 3 months and costs:
· 15 Days – 30 USD
· 30 Days – 50 USD
· 90 Days – 125 USD
- Apply through a registered trekking agency—permits for restricted areas like Nar Phu and Upper Mustang can’t be issued to solo trekkers.
- Carry at least 4 passport-size photos—required for TIMS and restricted area permits.
- Keep multiple photocopies of your passport—needed for permit applications and checkpoint verifications.
- Permits required for this trek include:
- Nar Phu Restricted Area Permit (RAP)
- Upper Mustang RAP
- Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP)
- Possibly Manang District Permit depending on route
- Restricted Area Permits must be applied for in Kathmandu or Pokhara—you can’t get them en route.
- Permit fees vary by region and duration—Upper Mustang and Nar Phu have fixed fees per week, so plan your days accordingly.
- Trek in a group of two or more—Nepal government requires at least two people for restricted permits (not applicable to all other regions).
- Double-check holidays and office hours—Nepal Tourism Board and Immigration offices are closed on Saturdays and public holidays.
- Keep your permits easily accessible—they’re checked at multiple points along the trail.
- Lost your permit on the trail?—Report immediately to your guide and the nearest check post; re-issuance is complex.
- Don’t rely on digital copies alone—carry printed permits during the trek, especially in remote checkpoints without network access.
For the Nar Phu Teri La Upper Mustang Trek you need a total of three trekking permits:
Upper Mustang Restricted Area Permit – USD500 per person for 10 days. USD50 per day for any additional days.
Nar Phu Valley Permit – USD100 per person per week from September to November and USD75 per person per week from December to August.
Annapurna Conservation Area Permit – USD25 per person for the duration of the trek.
Note: For the restricted area permit and the Nar Phu Valley Permit a minimum of two trekkers are required. We shall organise these permits for you.
Why You Need These Permits
Basically, the fees from these permits go back into conservation of the area, including cultural preservation. It is also a way to keep track as to where trekkers are in the area – every time you go through a checkpoint it is noted down, which can be invaluable should you get lost between checkpoints.
Landscapes: The landscapes on this trek are simply amazing and probably not something you would expect in Nepal. While there are forests to hike through, rivers to cross and some waterfalls cascading to add to the beauty, there are also deep gorges, high cliffs, incredible rock and cliff formations in unusual colours, and caves to explore.
People: The people along this route at some point migrated down from Tibet (several hundreds of years ago) and to this day they have strong trading and cultural ties with Tibet. They are Tibetan Buddhists, and many speak their own language which migrated with them. It is fascinating to see their way of life – many are still traders, many are herders. Around the settlements there are cultivated lands, which also vary in size and abundance depending on the location.
Wildlife: Blue sheep, Himalayan Tahr (wild goat) and smaller mammals are common to this area. The Himalayan Black Bear and Snow Leopard live in these high areas. |It is debated whether the Tibetan Wolf is found here also. In any event, the last three mammals are extremely hard to see at any time.
Birds: There are some spectacular birds of pray in this region including the Golden Eagle, Himalayan Griffon Vulture, and Lammergeyer or bearded Vulture. The latter two would be involved in the traditional sky burials practiced in Tibet and this part on Nepal in the past and still deal with any livestock or wildlife that die on the mountains.
- A porter can carry up to the maximum of 20kg, but he is also walking across this difficult terrain so try to keep your pack down in weight.
- Sharing with another trekker is cost-effective.
- You will carry your own 3 or 4 kg day pack. Heavy enough for most of us on these trails.
- You will be contributing to his family’s income and his community.
Porters will be carrying the tents, kitchen equipment and food you will be using on the camping portion of this trek. However, they do not carry trekkers gear. If you wish a porter to carry your gear, we will have to arrange for an additional porter that you will pay for.
It is advisable to hire a porter for this trek as it is high altitude, which will take the energy from you. Since we try as far as possible to hire porters from the area we are trekking in, the porters are more used to the altitude than those of us who live at lower elevations.
Since the cost of a porter is not included, if a trekking companion would like to share a porter with you, that is one way to keep the extra expense down. Please note that a porter can only carry 20kg so if you are sharing a porter, please keep your pack down to 10kg or under.
The advantage of hiring a porter is obvious – you will not have the burden of a heavy pack. The hidden advantage is that the money goes directly to his family and trickles down to his community.
Tipping the Guide and Porter
Carrying camping equipment over this rough terrain is tough! Keeping you safe and supported can also be hard work at times. Please show your appreciation for your porters, guide and chef by tipping them. We at Magical Nepal do not deduct anything from our staff’s tips. 100% of your tips go to them.
We suggest the following:
- Tip the guide 10% of your trip cost.
- A personal porter should be tipped 10% of the total number of days he has carried your gear. If you are sharing a porter, you can share the tip between you.
- For the chef and camping gear porters, it is normal to tip around a total of USD 150 for each porter and a total of USD 200 for the chef. The tips for these crew members are divided by the number of trekkers on a trip So, the larger your group, the less you pay as an individual!
- Teri La Pass (5,595 m) – Risk of altitude sickness, snowstorms, whiteouts, and exposure; steep, icy, and physically demanding.
- Naar to Teri La Base Camp – Isolated and harsh; long days without settlements, risk of exhaustion and cold-related issues.
- Kyang to Phu – Remote and minimally trafficked; limited trail markings, risk of getting lost or delayed.
- Koto to Meta (Landslide Area) – Narrow cliffside trails with rockfall risk, especially after rain or in monsoon season.
- High Camp before Teri La – Freezing temperatures, strong winds, and frostbite risk due to lack of shelter and high exposure.
- Yara to Tangge – Long desert-like section with few water sources; risk of dehydration, heat exhaustion, and navigational errors.
- Chuksang to Samar – Loose trails along deep gorges; risk of slips and falls, especially in windy conditions.
- Headache (especially at high altitude)
- Nausea or vomiting (signs of AMS)
- Dizziness or lightheadedness
- Shortness of breath, even at rest
- Loss of appetite or poor digestion
- Difficulty sleeping at higher elevations
- Fatigue, weakness, or unusual tiredness
- Swelling of hands, feet, or face (mild altitude edema)
- Dry mouth, dark urine, or low urine output (dehydration)
- Muscle cramps, soreness, or joint pain
- Blisters on feet from long walking days
- Rapid heartbeat during climbs
- Mild disorientation or trouble concentrating
- Acclimatize properly—rest in Phu and Lo Manthang.
- Travel with a licensed guide and porter at all times.
- Carry a first-aid kit, altitude meds, and portable oxygen.
- Use satellite phone or GPS tracker in remote zones.
- Always check the weather before crossing Teri La Pass.
- Never trek alone—this is a restricted, high-risk expedition.
This trek, taking in three separate administrative districts of Nepal and many different terrains is a challenging and strenuous trek not just because of the topography of the land, but because of the high altitude. In addition, it is an expedition-type trek, with the majority of the nights staying in tents.
We recommend that only those who prior trekking experience do this trek. For other people there are alternative treks we can recommend into the same regions which are shorter, less strenuous and do not involve camping.
The high passes are challenging and a little technical in places. Altitude can be a concern also, particularly if you have never been at high altitude and do not know how your body will react. Having said that, our expert guide will assist you when necessary and has a good understanding of altitude related illness and how to mitigate it.
As this is a remote area, you will be out of contact for a number of days. On part of the trek there are no human settlements and phone networks may not work.
This trek involves an average 6 or 7 hours of walking per day over rough grounds and over high passes, as well as through fantastic mountain ranges. Camping is as comfortable as we can make it, but we realise it is not everyone’s favourate form of accommodation.
Therefore, we recommend this trek only to the fit, determined and adventurous!
Even so, we still recommend you work on your overall fitness and stamina to prepare for this trek before you arrive in Nepal!
- Trekking poles, even if you do not usually use them, are a great asset in stabilizing yourself on risky trails.
- Crampons may be necessary and we recommend you bring, or buy them in Kathmandu just in case they are required. Please wear them if told by your guide.
- Do not go off on your own at the rest/ overnight stops. without telling your guide.
- Drink at least 4ltrs of water per day.
- It is important not to skip meals as you require the energy.
- Do tell your guide if you feel unwell; even slightly unwell. Don’t let a problem grow.
- Have the correct insurance.
- Wear the correct gear.
- Bring your own regular medicines and a medical kit.
- Pay attention to the guide in tricky or dangerous areas.
One of the main concerns is altitude related illness. Science has not yet discovered why some people suffer while others do not. It has nothing to do with age and seems not to be related to general fitness. There are those who have a natural inbuilt ability from their ancestors such as those born in the Andes and the Sherpa people of Nepal born in the high Everest region. For the rest of us, we just have to concentrate on reducing the risks by staying hydrated, going slowly and steadily and taking lots of acclimatization breaks.
On this trek we have built in a specific acclimatization day at Phu village and there are two days at the high altitude village of Lo Manthang. Staying at one high altitude place for some time helps our bodies cope with even higher altitude in the near future. Our guide is well-versed on how to deal with anyone suffering from minor altitude related problems and will be on the lookout for any signs in his clients.
It is unlikely you will get lost on the trail unless you wander off yourself without telling the guide where you are going! This might sound a bit parentish, but it is possible to get confused on some of these trails and lose the way. Be aware of your surroundings.
- Mild temperatures and rhododendron blooms in lower regions
- Good acclimatization conditions and longer daylight hours
- Some snow may remain on Teri La Pass in early spring
- Less crowded than autumn, especially in Nar and Phu
- Clear skies, stable weather, and excellent visibility
- Dry trails and ideal conditions for crossing Teri La Pass
- Perfect for photography with sharp mountain views
- High demand—book permits, flights, and guides early.
- Frequent rain, muddy and slippery trails below 3,500 m
- Landslide risk on the approach to Meta and Mustang
- Poor visibility and potential trail washouts
- Upper Mustang and Nar Phu are in rain shadow—but Teri La may be dangerous
- Crystal-clear skies and peaceful, crowd-free trails
- Extreme cold and deep snow at high altitudes
- Many teahouses in remote areas may be closed
- Only recommended for experienced trekkers with full gear and winter support
The best times to trek in Nepal are spring and autumn. However, Upper Mustang is in the rain shadow – meaning monsoon does not affect that area as it does trekking routes in other areas. Therefore it is a good time to come for this trek. The trails, as well as Kathmandu and Pokhara will be less busy as Western tourists normally come in spring or autumn. And this monsoon time of year fits well with the Northern Hemisphere school/ college holidays!
· Spring takes place during March to May.
· Monsoon takes place during June to the beginning of September.
· Autumn takes place during September to November.
Note: At lower altitudes during the spring and beginning of August the weather will be warm, while it will be very cold at the higher altitudes. Keep this in mind when preparing your packing list.
Trekking in the Rain Shadow
Monsoon takes place in Nepal around the end of June until the beginning of September, and sometimes well into September. This makes most of the trekking routes difficult or impossible to access.
However, the Nar Phu Teri La Upper Mustang Trek can be done during this summer season (monsoon) because it falls into the rain shadow. What that means is the mountains shield this area from the monsoon rains. This is why the landscape in Upper Mustang is so dry and lunar looking.
The areas around Nar and Phu villages are also in the rain shadow but be aware that weather is unpredictable and there may be some rain in these months. Being prepared for rain – with rain gear and by waterproofing your kit bags – will certainly give you peace of mind. There will be some rain at the low altitude locations at the start of your trek and then again in Pokhara.
Unfortunately, we cannot predict the weather – some weeks during the monsoon sees little or no rain, other weeks see daily rain! But rest assured during your time in Upper Mustang it is highly unlikely you will need your rain coat!
Over and above the cost of the trek itself there are some things you should calculate for, including money to spend on the trek.
Since this is mainly a camping trek, and with only a few settlements on the route, there really isn’t much to spend money on! In the settlements that do have teahouse accommodation available, you will be able to purchase soft drinks, beer, perhaps some good coffee and pastries. So, you might want to bring some money for those times. Also note that in teahouses you will be required to pay for WiFi, hot showers and for charging your electronics. At the monasteries you visit it is normal to give a donation of around $1-2 (Nrs150-300).
What is Included and Not Included in the Cost of Your Trek
Transport: Local transport to the start of the trek is included as is the transport down from Jomson to Pokhara. Should you wish to have a private jeep for these road trips, there is a charge for these – please ask us.
Accommodation: Tented accommodation where indicated. Teahouse accommodation where indicated. In Pokhara you will have accommodation in a nice hotel. Teahouses are pretty basic, and some may even have outside, shared toilets/ showers. Naturally, when camping there is a shared toilet tent and a place where you can take a hot water bucket shower. There will also be a communal dining tent.
Food: When camping you will get breakfast, lunch, dinner, and afternoon snacks. When staying in a teahouse you will get dinner and breakfast there and lunch will either be a packed lunch or from a smaller establishment on the trail. In Pokhara you will get breakfast only; not dinner or other items.
Tips: Please calculate the tips for your guide and porters. Tips can be in Nepali rupees or other currencies.
Before you come expenses: .
- Flight ticket, visa fee, and insurance
- Trekking gear, including trekking boots.
It is best if you consider this an off-the-road experience (which it is!). Tell friends and family you will be out of touch for the duration so they should not worry. There is no WiFi in the small settlements you will pass on the trail, and phone networks may not work in some locations. By the time you reach Kagbeni on the way to Jomson you are back on the main Annapurna trails and WiFi, charging facilities etc will be available in teahouses. These are most likely available in Lo Manthang also but the network in Upper Mustang is a bit unpredictable.
Bringing your own portable solar panel to charge your phone/ camera is worthwhile. A local sim card can be bought at the international airport on arrival which will give you access to local data packages – when there is network availability.
Minimum Number of Trekkers
It is not possible to be less than two trekkers in a remote area (such as Upper Mustang). Also, in order for us to organize this camping trek, we need a minimum of two people to make it cost effective.
If you are one person travelling alone we will endeavor to put you with other trekkers who wish to do this trek. Since this is a difficult trek that only appeals to a certain type of adventurer, it would be a great idea for you to bring your own friends with you, if possible!
The cost includes local transport from Kathmandu to the start of the trek and from Jomson to Pokhara at the end of the trek.
Should you wish to hire a private jeep for more comfort and flexibility, please discuss this with us.
There is also the option of flying from Jomson to Pokhara. The reason we do not include this in the trek itinerary is that flights can be easily cancelled due to bad weather. But if you would like to fly out of Jomson then please do talk to us about this.
This is already a three week trek but if you would like to extend it even more – who knows when you will be back in the Nepal Himalayas – there are a few extensions trips we can recommend in this area. Please note if you do this extensions within the timeframe of the Nar Phu Teri La Upper Mustang Trek, you must arrange this with us beforehand and there will be an extra charge for accommodation, food, guide, and porter (if required).
Poon Hill:
Poon Hill is a very popular destination in itself. Standing at 3,210 m / 10,500 ft this viewpoint provides fabulous close up views of the Annapurna mountain range including Dhaulagiri, Machhapuchhre and Manaslu. Since this is a sunrise experience, it is necessary to rise and hike up to the viewpoint before dawn! Some enterprising people do provide tea at the top of the hill, then it’s a hike back down for breakfast in Ghorepani before moving on.
Although Poon Hill is a wonderful spot overlooking the magnificent Annapurna Range, it may not live up to what you have already seen on your trek. The real advantage after the Nar Phu Teri La Upper Mustang Trek would be to end your trek with a relatively easy (as you will now find) couple of hiking days. Total days added: 2.
Muktinath:
You will come out into Lower Mustang at Kagbeni, which is a short trek, or even shorter jeep ride, to the Hindu pilgrimage site of Muktinath. This is a fascinating site which attracts Hindu pilgrims from all over Nepal and India. It has 108 sacred water spouts and an undying flame (most likely underground gases). This would give you an insight into the main religion of Nepal – Hinduism – after spending three weeks in Buddhist culture. You could overnight in Muktinath and walk down to Jomson or catch transport directly to Pokhara the next day. Total days added: 1.
Your trek ends in Pokhara with one nights accommodation and breakfast. We encourage you to take full advantage of this lake side town to relax after your long trek. There is much to see and do in Pokhara or you could simply chill out.
Suggestions for Pokhara:
- Hike to the Peace Stupa (for views of the lake)
- Davi’s Falls (waterfall)
- Mahendra Cave
- International Mountain Museum (history of mountaineering)
- Bundy jumping (if you haven’t had enough excitement!)
- Zip lining
- Cable car ride (to Sarangkot for sunrise views)
- Boating on Fewa Lake
- Paragliding
- Partying all night long at some great music venues and nightclubs.
- Or simply wander along the lakeshore and dine in great restaurants.
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Nar Phu Teri La Upper Mustang Trek Map

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