Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing via Ama Lapcha Pass

Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing Highlights

• Summit two popular climbing peaks in the Himalayas
• Cross the spectacular and challenging Ama Lapcha Pass, part of Great Himalaya Trail High Route
• View Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu from the summit of Mera PeakGo off the beaten track to Mera Peak Base Camp from Lukla airport
• View of Imja Lake (frozen glacier lake)
• Optional hike to Base Camp of Mount Everest
• Camping experience in the Himalayas.

This amazing climbing adventure combines two popular climbing peaks in Nepal in one trip.  The Ama Lapcha Pass, which connects Makalu and Everest Regions, is part of the Great Himalaya Trail (GHT),, which spans the country’s width at a high elevation.

Crossing this Pass is technically challenging, so climbing two peaks in one trip makes this a climbing trip for those with previous high-altitude climbing experience.

Start your adventure by heading south of Lukla airport, leaving behind the main and busy Everest Base Camp trail. With Mera Peak being considered the easier peak, we climb that one first, giving you time to acclimatize and gain confidence in your climbing skills before attempting the more difficult of the two.

Before Mera Peak, the teahouses offered only basic accommodation as this route saw fewer tourists.  But the stunning views of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu from the summit of Mera Peak make up for this slight discomfort. Base Camp at Mera Peak is situated at 5,300 m, with High Camp at 5,800 m.

After climbing Mera Peak and crossing the Ama Lapcha Pass, we enter the Everest Region via Chukung. From here, we reach Island Peak.

After climbing Island Peak, you can either descend down to Lukla for the flight back to Kathmandu or add 3-4 days to your trip to Everest Base Camp and follow the classic EBC route back to Lukla via Kalapatthar, Tengboche, and Namche Bazaar.  Please confirm this at the time of booking.

Magical Nepal works with experienced, professional Sherpa guides for the whole trip. We provide one main climbing guide for 3-4 climbers.  We recommend clients have had previous high-altitude climbing experience.

This trip is best made in April and May or in October and November.

Mera Peak And Island Peak Climbing Itinerary

Day 01 Kathmandu

• Accommodation: Hotel

Welcome to Kathmandu.  Today you will have the chance to meet some of the team who will accompany you on your climb. This is also an opportunity to ask many questions.  It is also the chance to buy or hire any gear you require. 

Day 02 Kathmandu to Lukla (flight) to Paiya (trek) 2,730m/ 8,956ft 

• Flight time: 35 to 40 minutes
• Trek time: 5 to 6 hours
• Accommodation: Tea House

Depart early for the flight from Kathmandu to Tenzing Hillary Airport in Lukla.  The scenery on the way ranges from farmlands to hills to stunning mountains.  Few people have had this wonderful experience flying into such a high-altitude airport.  Once the gear is handed over to the porters, the group sets off to the first stop at Paiya.

Day 03: Paiya to Panggom 2,846m/ 9,337ft

• Trek time: 5 to 6 hours
• Accommodation: Tea House

Crossing a wooden bridge over the Dudh Koshi River, the often slippery trail takes you to Kar La Pass.  After the pass, we hike through Rhododendron and bamboo forests until we reach Pangkoma village.  The views of the mountains are amazing – a host of mountains, including Dudh Kund Himal.

Day 04: Panggom to Ningsow 2,846m/ 9,393ft

• Trek time: 4 to 5 hours
• Accommodation: Tea House

Today’s trek starts along a rocky path and then through a Rhododendron forest.  It continues through hills and ridges, and we can see Mera Peak’s South Face at this time. There are more forests of pine and Rhododendron, which the trail zigzags through and descends into Ningsow.

Day 05: Ningsow to Chhatra Khola 2,800m/ 9,186ft 

• Trek time: 7 to 8 hours
• Accommodation: Tea House

Today the trail is steep and narrow but continues through the forests. Once we reach a stream, we see an interesting stone cave. Continuing through the forest, we should look for wildlife until we reach Chhatra Khola.

Day 06: Chhatra Khola to Kothe  3,691m/ 12,109ft 

• Trek time: 6 to 7 hours
• Accommodation: Tea House

Today there is another chance to spot wildlife such as sloth bears or jungle cats as we go through pine and bamboo forests. We come to a beautiful vantage point above the Hinku Valley.  Today’s highlight is the valley below and the great Mera Peak views.   Here there is another cave. Considered holy to Buddhists, this cave shows the three elements of Buddha.  After lunch, we follow a ridge along the river to Kothe.

Day 07: Kothe to Thaknak 4,358m/ 14,297ft

• Trek time: 3 to 4 hours
• Accommodation: Tea House

It’s a shorter walking day, which is good as the altitude is rising now.  Hiking slowly along the ridge of the Hinku River, we come to Lungsumba Gompa.  Here we can explore the gompa – Tibetan for the monastery – which is 200 years old.  The mountains on display today are Mera North and other peaks.  After the gompa is a short walk to Thaknak, a seasonal village.  Livestock is grazed here in the summer.  We spend the night in one of the few teahouses.

Day 08 Thaknak to Khare  5,045m/ 16,486ft 

• Trek time: 2 to 3 hours
• Accommodation: Tea House

Today we hike over the lateral moraine of the Dig Glacier to the Dig Kharka pasture.  On the way, we see Hinku Nup and Shar glaciers.  It’s a very steep path. However, the views of the mountains, including Charpate Himal and the north face of Mera Peak, are fantastic.   Our tented camp is set up at Khare.

Day 09 Khare: Acclimatization and pre-climb training

Today we spend the day training and checking the gear in preparation for the upcoming climb. 

Day 10 Khare to Mera High Camp 5,780m/ 18,958ft

• Trek time: 6 to 7 hours
• Accommodation: Camping

Following the Mera Glacier to Mera Le Pass we push on to High Camp over rock-strewn trails.  Camp is set up at Mera High Camp in anticipation of the climb.

Day 11: Mera High Camp to Summit trek to Khongma Dingma 4,850m/ 15,912f

• Trek time: 8 to 9 hours
• Accommodation: Tea House

Today we summit Mera Peak.  The climb starts around 2 am with breakfast, followed by a 4 to 5-hour hike to reach the summit. From the summit, we can see Mt Everest, Cho Oyu, Kanchenjunga, Makalu, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Kangtega, Chamlang, and Baruntse. There are also several other peaks over 6,000m. This is a fantastic photo opportunity while we catch our breath, then return to Mera High Camp for some rest and to discuss the climb and the climb yet to come. 

Day 12: Khongma Dingma to Seto Pokhari 5,035m / 16,519ft

• Trek time: 8 to 9 hours
• Accommodation: Tea House

In contrast to the last few days, we started walking through yak pastures today.  But then we ascend a snowy moraine to Seto Pokhari.  This is a glacial lake whose name translates to the white pond.  Overhead are Baruntse and Chamlang Himal.  Tonight, we sleep in a teahouse at Seto Pokhari.

Day 13: Seto Pokhara to Ama Lapcha Base Camp 5,650m/ 18,536ft

• Trek time: 5 to 6 hours
• Accommodation: Tea House

Heading to Amphu Lapcha Base Camp, we get clear views of Mt. Everest and the lakes along the Hongu basin.  We must cross the Hongu Pokhari to reach the base camp, where we camp for the night. 

Day 14: Ama Lapcha Base Camp to Chukung 4,750m/ 15,580ft

• Trek time: 9 to 10 hours
• Accommodation: Tea House

Hiking through the snow, we reach Ama Lapcha Pass, which consists of serac cliffs and ice shelves.  This is one of the most challenging mountain passes in the country. 

The ice shelves rise around 6 meters, and technical climbing is required.  But from the top, the views are astounding: Mera Peak, Lhotse, Chamlang, and the Hongu Basin are seen.  Then rappel down the rocky cliff to flatter ground.  The onward trek passes the Imja Glacier and the Imja Valley, with great views of Island Peak on the trail to Chukung, where we stop for the night.

Day 15: Chukung to Island Peak Base Camp 5,087/ 16,690ft

• Trek time: 3 hours
• Accommodation: Tea House

The trail goes along the glacial moraine from Chukung, then down to the runoff from Imja Lake. Passing between some hills, we come out on a sandy plain at Island Peak and Lhotse.  Hiking on to Island Peak Base Camp has spectacular views of Imja Valley.  We can check the gear again in the afternoon and prepare for the climb.

Day 16: Island Peak Base Camp to Summit and Down to Island Peak Base Camp

• Trek time: 8 to 10 hours
• Accommodation: Tea House

We will summit Island Peak today with the correct weather conditions (6,189m/ 20,305ft).  We start very early – 2 am because it’s a  long hard climb. There is a rocky scree and steep rocks, and when we reach 5,700m, the thin air begins to affect us.  But we keep going and reach a narrow ridge,  which is the start of the glacier. 

We need crampons, ropes, and ice axes to make this crossing which can take 1 to 2 hours.  At the Headwall, the team will fix climbing ropes.  Climbing up the Headwall, you will reach the summit of Island Peak, with its amazing views.  The summit is small, so we remain roped there for a while. 

Then we abseil down the Headwall. Again, roped together, we retrace the trail through the glacier.  At High Camp, there is time for a short rest while the gear is packed.    Then trek down to Island Peak Base Camp, where we get a well-deserved rest.

Day 17: Island Peak Base Camp to Pangboche 3,985m / 11,286ft 

• Trek time: 8 to 10 hours
• Accommodation: Tea House

Today we hike to Pangboche from Island Base camp

Day 18: Pangboche to Namche Bazaar

• Trek time: 8 to 10 hours
• Accommodation: Tea House

We pass through Tengboche on the way back to Namche Bazaar. Here there is a bakery with some delicious cakes and coffee.  You might want to make a quick stop or push on to Namche Bazaar, where you can get good coffee and cake!  Celebrate your achievement this evening in a comfortable lodge.

Day 19 Namche Bazaar to Lukla 

• Trek time: 8 to 10 hours
• Accommodation: Tea House

Today we take a long, relatively easy trek down to Lukla for our last night in the Himalayas.

Day 20 Lukla to Kathmandu

• Flight time: 35 to 40 minutes
• Accommodation: Hotel

Say goodbye to your climbing team before your early morning flight back to Kathmandu, with time for a bit of shopping before a truly celebratory dinner. 

Day 21 Departure

• Our staff will ensure you get to the airport on time if you have an international flight.  But let us know if you are staying longer in Nepal, and we can discuss any future plans you may have.

Mera Peak And Island Peak Climbing Map

Related Trip in Everest Region

Everest View Trek | Everest Base Camp Trek | Gokyo Chola Pass EBC Trek | Everest Three Pass Trek | Jiri To Everest Base Camp Trek | Island Peak Climbing | Lobuche Peak Climbing | Mera And Island Peak Climbing | Mera Peak Climbing | Baruntse Expedition | Everest Helicopter Tour