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Unguided Alpine Style Expeditions in Nepal Himalayas

Unguided Alpine Style Expeditions in Nepal Himalayas

We take the stress out of the routine and face the problems that Nepal is famous for, leaving you completely focussed on the mountain climbing!

Makes sense that alpine climbers want to be completely independent of all ‘package’ climbs but there are certain ‘formalities’, such as obtaining permits, which must be completed on behalf of the expeditions by a locally registered trekking company.

So we are suggesting that boring pre departure, but absolutely necessary, paperwork and logistics is done by us. Leaving you to do the interesting part of climbing the Himalayas.

In addition to all the necessary document preparation, we will also:

  • Arrange transport, porters and mules to carry your supplies and equipment to base camp
  • Take care of the garbage deposit and refund
  • Ensure you have the necessary Liaison Officer for peaks higher than 6,500 m

What We Will Do

1. Document Preparation

Magical Nepal can help you compose and put together the following initial documents:

  • Agency application letter
  • Team leader application letter
  • Online form
  • Affidavit form
  • Contract with high altitude worker
  • Medical certificate of high altitude worker
  • Insurance for high altitude worker
  • Bio data of each climber
  • Details of the expeditions food
  • Outline caravan route itinerary
  • Outline climbing itinerary
  • Regional map of the peak

2. Application

We will also make the following applications on the expedition’s behalf:

  • Obtain the climbing royalty deposit permission
  • Submit the garbage deposit
  • We will organise the issue and obtain the permit
  • We will arrange the necessary briefing appointment in the Department of Tourism

3. Trek Permit and Transport

Some of the areas you will want to trek through are in restricted areas where special entry permits and trekking permits are required. Magical Nepal will organise these for you from the Department of Immigration and the National Trust for Nature Conservation.

We can also arrange any flights, road transport, porters and mules as required.

4. Debriefing and Garbage Management as Per Nepal Government Rules

On your return from your expedition, we will arrange the necessary debriefing appointment with the Department of Tourism. We will ask you to sign an authorisation letter regarding the garbage deposit which will allow us to take care of on your behalf.

Our Past Alpine Clients

We have worked with climbers of several expeditions from the American Alpine Club:

Panbari Expedition

This expedition took place in to Mount Panbari 6,905 m in Manaslu Region during September November 2017. On this occasion we worked with Clint Helander, Andres Marin and Leon Hero Davis.

Choppa Bamare Expedition

This expedition took place to Mount Choppa Bamare 6,109 m in Rolwaling Region during December 2017. On this occasion we worked with John Kelly.

Omi Tso Go Expedition

This expedition took place to Omi Tso Go 6,332m in Rolwaling Region in January 2018. On this occasion we worked with John Kelly.

Pashuwo Peak Expedition

This expedition took place to Pashuwo Peak 6,177 m in the Tsum Valley in February 2018. On this occasion we worked with John Kelly.

Lobuje Peak Expedition

This expedition took place to Lobuje Peak 6,119 m in the Everest Region in May 2018. On this occasion we worked with Warren Eva and Anthony Pringle.

Island Peak Expedition

This expedition took place to Island Peak 6,187 m in the Everest Region in May 2018. On this occasion we worked with Anthony Pringle.

Garbage Fees

The Nepal Mountaineering Association has made the provision that all expeditions bring their garbage down off the mountain. The amount depends on the height of the peak. This fee is refundable once the garbage is brought down for proper disposal.

Garbage is classified into garbage which is biodegradable or can be incinerated on site, that which can be recycled (Including gas cylinders), and that which can be re exported (Including oxygen cylinders).

Liaison Officer

A liaison officer is required by all expeditions climbing to more than 6,500 m. The liaison officers are government employees whose job it is to certify that the expedition did reach the proposed summit as well as acting a go between for any disputes between the expedition team and the Nepali support staff, and ensure any accidents etc are reported immediately to the concerned authorities, among other tasks. The liaison officer will stay at base camp through the expedition.

Our Testimonials

1. Clint Helander from Panbari Expedition

First Class Logistics Outfitter! We used Magical Nepal to outfit our climbing expedition to the Manaslu region. We were impressed with the professionalism and easy operation working with Pradeep as all of our questions or concerns were answered swiftly. The moment we landed in Kathmandu we were greeted by Pradeep and Saugat and taken care of. The logistics of preparing our climbing permits, shopping for food and transportation could not have been any smoother. All the guides we met working for Magical Nepal during our 6 week expedition were friendly and most helpful. We will continue using this outfit for all our future climbing expeditions and recommend their services to anyone traveling to the Himalayas.

2. John Kelly from Choppa Bamare, Omi Tso Go and Pashuwo Expedition

Over the years I’ve used several different companies. Magical Nepal is by far the best! No hidden cost, no bs, and very honest which is very hard to find in a trekking company in Nepal. Highly recommended.


You can send your inquiry via the form below.

You can send your inquiry via the form below.

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Contact Info

Phone: +977-9841773981

Email: info@magicalnepal.com

Thamel, Kathmandu, Nepal P.O.Box: 4003