I have stood at the edge of a lot of water in Nepal. Nothing prepared me for the first time the trail broke through the pines above Ringmo and Shey Phoksundo Lake appeared below. The colour is the problem with this lake. Photos make people think it has been edited. It has not. The water is a hard, mineral turquoise that shifts to deep blue and almost black where it drops away, and there is not a single fish in it.
Most guides will tell you Phoksundo is the deepest lake in Nepal and leave it there. That is true, but it is the least interesting thing about the place. This guide covers what the lake actually is, why the water looks the way it does, how the trek to reach it works day by day, the permits you need in 2026, and the small cultural details that most write-ups skip. If you are planning a trip to Dolpo, this is the practical version.
Where Is Shey Phoksundo Lake, and Why Is It So Deep?
Shey Phoksundo Lake sits at 3,611 metres in Dolpa District, deep in the northwest of Nepal. It lies inside Shey Phoksundo National Park, which, at 3,555 square kilometres, is the largest national park in the country and the only true trans-Himalayan one. The lake is Y-shaped, roughly five kilometres long, and fed by glacial melt from the Kanjirowa range.
Now the depth question, because there is more to it than the usual line. The figure repeated everywhere is 145 metres, and that comes from a 2004 survey by the Department of Hydrology and Meteorology. A second, more detailed survey in 2019 measured the maximum depth at about 136 metres. Either number makes it the deepest lake in Nepal by a clear margin.
The depth exists because of how the lake formed. A large landslide once blocked the Phoksundo River, and the debris created a natural moraine dam. Water backed up behind it and filled a steep glacial basin. There is no surface outlet. The water leaves by seeping through the dam and reappears as the Phoksundo Waterfall, which drops around 167 metres and is one of the tallest in the country. The lake was listed as a Ramsar wetland of international importance in 2007.
Why the Water Is That Impossible Turquoise
Two things make the colour. First, the water carries fine glacial flour, ground-up rock suspended from the melt above. That is what scatters the light into blue and green. Second, and this is the part people miss, there is almost nothing living in the lake to cloud it.
There are no fish in Shey Phoksundo. There is no algae to speak of either. The local Bon and Buddhist communities treat the lake as sacred, and a long-standing ban on fishing, held by religious custom rather than by law, has kept it that way for centuries. With no biological activity stirring the water, the suspended glacial flour stays clean and even, and the clarity is remarkable. On a still day, you can see the bottom several metres down.
That clarity changes with the season. The turquoise is at its most intense in autumn, once the monsoon melt has pushed the glacial flour concentration to its peak. If the colour is the reason you are going, plan for October or November.
The Trek to Phoksundo Lake: Route and Days
There is no road to the lake. Getting there is part of the point. The standard route runs from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj by air, then a second short flight from Nepalgunj to the Juphal airstrip at 2,475 metres. Juphal flights are small and weather-dependent, so build a buffer day into your plan.
From Juphal, the walk to the lake takes about three to four days:
- Day 1: Juphal to Dunai (2,140 m). A gentle three to four hours through terraced fields to Dunai, the district headquarters of Dolpa.
- Day 2: Dunai to Chhepka. A longer day following the Suli Gad River through forest and small settlements.
- Day 3: Chhepka to Ringmo (around 3,640 m). The climb steepens. You pass the base of the Phoksundo Waterfall before reaching Ringmo village.
- Day 4: Ringmo to the lake. A short walk brings you to the shore, with time to explore the northern basin and the monastery.
Most itineraries run 12 to 14 days round trip once you factor in the flights, an acclimatisation day, and the return. Teahouses now operate as far as the lake, so lower Dolpo no longer demands full camping, though standards are basic and beds are limited.
Permits You Need, and What They Cost in 2026
Shey Phoksundo Lake is in Lower Dolpo, which is a restricted area. That shapes the whole permit picture, so read this carefully.
You need two permits:
- Shey Phoksundo National Park Entry Permit. NPR 3,000 (about USD 30) for foreign nationals, less for SAARC citizens. Available in Kathmandu or at the park gate.
- Lower Dolpo Restricted Area Permit. USD 20 per person per week, plus USD 5 for each additional day.
Two rules matter more than the fees. You cannot trek Lower Dolpo solo, and you cannot get a restricted-area permit as a lone individual. You need a licensed guide and a minimum group of two, and the permit must be arranged through a registered trekking agency, which files it with the Department of Immigration. TIMS is generally not required inside restricted areas like this one.
If your plan pushes north past the lake toward Shey Gompa and Upper Dolpo, that is a separate and far more expensive tier. The Upper Dolpo permit runs USD 500 per person for the first 10 days, with daily fees after that. All of these figures are set by the government and change from year to year, so confirm the current rate before you book. Magical Nepal handles the full permit process for Dolpo treks.
When to Go and How to Handle the Altitude
Two windows work. Autumn, from late September to November, gives the clearest skies, stable flying weather into Juphal, and the deepest lake colour. Spring, from March to May, is warmer and brings rhododendron blooms at lower elevations. Avoid the monsoon, roughly June to August, when the trails turn slick and landslides close sections of the route.
Altitude is real here but manageable. Ringmo and the lake sit around 3,600 to 3,660 metres, high enough that acute mountain sickness can appear. The basics still apply. Ascend gradually, drink plenty of water, skip alcohol, and build in a rest day before you push higher. If you get a persistent headache, nausea, or dizziness that does not ease, the answer is to descend, not to press on. A licensed guide watching for these signs is one more reason the solo ban is not just red tape.
Ringmo Village, Monasteries, and Dolpo Culture
The lake is only half the reason to come. Ringmo, known locally as Tsowa, is a Tibetan-influenced village of flat-roofed stone houses on the southern shore. The people here are Bhote, and daily life still runs on yak herding, barley, and old trade rhythms with the high passes toward Tibet.
The area is sacred to followers of Bon, an ancient pre-Buddhist tradition, as well as to Tibetan Buddhists. The 15th-century Thasung Choling monastery stands near the water, and prayer flags and small stupas ring the shore. If you have read Peter Matthiessen’s The Snow Leopard from 1978, this is the lake at the heart of it. It is also where the Oscar-nominated film Himalaya, sometimes titled Caravan, was shot. Walk quietly and ask before photographing people or interiors.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Shey Phoksundo really the deepest lake in Nepal?
Yes. Surveys put its maximum depth at roughly 136 to 145 metres, deeper than any other lake in the country.
Can you swim in Phoksundo Lake?
A quick dip is possible, but the water is glacial and very cold, and the lake is sacred to locals, so most visitors admire it rather than swim.
Why are there no fish in the lake?
There is no natural fish population, and a religious ban on fishing has protected the lake for centuries. The absence of fish and algae is part of why the water is so clear.
How many days does the trek take?
Around three to four days of walking each way from Juphal, or about 12 to 14 days total once flights and rest days are included.
Can I trek to Shey Phoksundo Lake alone?
No. Lower Dolpo is a restricted area. You need a licensed guide, a minimum of two trekkers, and permits arranged through a registered agency.
Conclusion
Shey Phoksundo is not the easiest lake in Nepal to reach, and that is exactly why it still feels untouched. The remoteness that costs you two flights and four days of walking is the same remoteness that has kept the water clear, the villages traditional, and the crowds away. Get the timing right for autumn colour, respect the altitude, and sort your permits and guide well ahead of the season.
If you want to see it for yourself, Magical Nepal runs guided treks through Lower Dolpo and handles the permits, flights, and logistics end to end. Reach out with your dates, and we will build a route that fits your time and pace.
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