I recently did Nepal Everest base camp trek after earthquake, starting and ending in Lukla. Journey started with a short flight from Kathmandu to Lukla on 3rd December and eventually I flew back to Kathmandu on 14th of December. Everything went perfect and as planned, however the temperature was freezing!
I watched an amazing sunset over Everest and its two subsidiary peaks, i.e. Mt. Nuptse and Mt. Lhola. Also, I had a legendary cup of tea at the Everest View Hotel, which is the world highest, located five-star hotel.
I was acclimatized enough after my recent Manaslu circuit trek after an earthquake in the month of October. Initially I was looking for crossing the Chola Pass and descend down Namche, straight north of Gokyo Valley. Local hotel owner from Lobuche informed me about the difficulties of the pass due to snow.
So, I decided not to trek Chola Pass and Gokyo Lake. Maybe soon, finger crossed! Also, I chose Simrik Air for my adventurous flight to and from Lukla. This is the budget airline for domestic flights in Nepal. Below is the daily itinerary, I had used for my Lukla to Everest base camp trek with some pictures and time-lapse clips. Seriously at first look, everything is perfect in Khumbu after the recent earthquake!
Itinerary Used For Everest Base Camp Trek After Earthquake
Day 01 : 3rd December 2015
My flight to Lukla was scheduled at 6:30 AM. However, due bad weather it took place at 9:50 AM. After this short and scary flight, I landed in Tenzing Hilary Airport Lukla.
I cannot believe that the airstrip was that tiny! The inclined runway is marked sharped right turn. Do you want to know what will be the result if the pilot failed on making a sharper right turn? Click here! Also, the flight gave me goosebumps, after flying pass Lamjura La, there was an unexpected free fall.
And that happens all the time said air hostage of Simrik Air, who was next to me. After landing in Lukla, I stopped for a while in one, out of many bustling teahouses in Lukla for a breakfast. Then I continued my journey toward the Phakding. It was really an easy start of the trail, just two and a half hours walk downhill.
Day 02 : 4th December 2015
I started early in the morning around 7:00 AM. After two and a half hours of walk from Phakding, I stopped for a while in Monjo. There was a park entrance gate and visitor centre. Foreigners were subject to issue Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit in Monjo.
TIMS counter was just before the Monjo! I really loved the 3D aerial view of Khumbu Valley inside the visitor centre. Also, there were lots of information about Khumbu and its Sherpa People.
I had lunch at Jhorsalle, which was the last town before Namche. From lunch place, Namche was approx 740 m vertical climbs! You will be rewarded with the first view of Mount Everest on your uphill climb.
The weather was clear and I saw Mt. Everest. It was a little hard climb to Namche, almost took complete three hours for me! I am not sure about the average time hikers spend for this part, maybe I was slow that time.
Day 03 : 5th December 2015
Seriously, I got lost in Namche Bazar! It was beyond imagination, big market very similar to Thamel in Kathmandu, but at 3440 m high from sea level. I first hiked toward Syangmoche Airport then toward Everest View Hotel.
I was on a budget, so I asked for a cup of tea, but they didn’t serve a cup of tea! They started with small pot tea; well it was five star hotel. I placed an order, a small pot tea. I didn’t made the trip to Khumjung and Khunde.
I descend down the same way back to Namche. I went to Liquid Bar in Namche and had two Sherpa Beer. I meet few other Sherpa guides there with their group. One of them asked me whether I was on my way up or down? I replied I am on my way up and he replied – “This is not good for your health.” I stopped!
Day 04 – 6th December 2015
Tengboche was the regular camp from Namche. When I reach Tengboche someone told me it would be warmer in Debouche, yes Debouche not Dingboche.
Actually, there were many places in Everest, which end with Che, look Namche, Tengboche, Debouche, Dingboche, Lobuche and Pheriche. Well, I decided to stay in Debouche instead of Tengboche.
So, I hiked down for the next fifteen minutes. I didn’t find significant differences in temperature, but the menu was cheaper. The view was more awesome from Tengboche, as you can have a view of Mt. Everest, Mt. Lhotse, Mt. Ama Dablam and Mt. Taboche. Also monastery was another highlight of Tengboche.
Day 05 – 7th December 2015
I continued toward Dingboche, with a different view of Mt. Ama Dablam. Pass through Pangboche; I stopped in Somare for lunch. There was no noticeable teahouse for overnight stay.
It was mainly for lunch camp, i.e. like Jhorsalle. When I came to know Dingboche was not that far from Somare, I decided not to have lunch there. I continue ahead. There comes a small trust bridge. It was slightly up over the bridge.
I found myself at the western end of Dingboche. It was an elongated village next to the Imja River. Ama Dablam was close south and Nagarjun Hill on the north. Despite my fitness, I decided to stay one more night in Dingboche for acclimatization.
Day 06 – 8th December 2015
I quit the idea of hiking toward Nagarjun Hill. I just walked around the village. Later, I found many peoples hikes to Chukung instead of Nagarjun. Chukung was the next village of Dingboche on the way to Island Peak Base Camp. If I had an idea about that side trip, I might have my lunch in Chukung instead of Dingboche!
Day 07 – 9th December 2015
The temperature was probably below minus during the night, winter was doing its work. I hike toward Lobuche; the trail was well marked, but somehow buried under fresh snow! By the time I reach Lobuche sun was warm.
I didn’t meet single trekkers who did Gokyo Chola Pass in Lobuche. After some information from hotel owner I cancelled my adventure in Gokyo Valley, Chola Pass sounds impassable.
Day 08 – 10th December 2015
It was 9:40 AM when I was in Gorakshep. The view was simply awesome. I ran to Everest Base Camp and hiked to Kalapatthar. The best sunset I had ever watched! Check my time-lapse.
Day 09 – 11th December 2015
Early morning, I start my journey back down to Lukla. I heard during Everest Marathon, runners accomplished Gorakshep to Namche, less than 7 hours! Passed through Pheriche, I stopped for a while in Somare for lunch. Again, after short break, I trek to Pangboche. It was just a mid day; plenty of time was left to hike Tengboche. But I didn’t because my mind was set that Tengboche will be colder!
Day 10 – 12th December 2015
On the way back to Namche, break taken in Tengboche was long. This was just because of the beauty of Tengboche. Until lunch I wait in Tengboche. Then hike down to Phunki Thanga, up to Kyanjuma and finally Namche. I though it is always nice to be in Namche.
Day 11 – 13th December 2015
This was one of the easiest days. I hiked all the down to Jhorsalle and follow the cross country flat terrain back to Phakding. After lunch in Phakding few hours walk back to Lukla. I was so excited to undertake the short flight from Lukla to Kathmandu. Starbuck Coffee in Lukla! Someone should sue them!
Day 12 – 14th December 2015
I was expecting a flight to be delayed, but all of sudden there was a sound of sirens in airport terminal building. I ran over to the Tenzing Hilary Airport, check in and wait for a while. Simrik Airlines arrived and I board and flew back.
Note: You need to reconfirm your ticket in Lukla, a day prior to your flight.
Everest Base Camp Trek Distance
Lukla – Phakding
- Steps: 20,789
- Distance: 12.91 km
Phakding – Namche
- Steps: 23,922
- Distance: 14.78 km
Namche – Everest View Hotel – Namche
- Steps: 13,971
- Distance: 9.53 km
Namche – Debouche
- Steps: 23,815
- Distance: 15.31 km
Debouche – Dingboche
- Steps: 21,648
- Distance: 16.16 km
- Steps: 10,335
- Distance: 7.73 km
Dingboche – Lobuche
- Steps: 20,467
- Distance: 13.43 km
Lobuche – Gorakshep – EBC – Kalapatthar – Gorakshep
- Steps: 28,543
- Distance: 18.9 km
Gorakshep – Pangboche
- Steps: 35,837
- Distance: 26.34 km
Pangboche – Namche
- Steps: 28,072
- Distance: 20.14 km
Namche – Lukla
- Steps: 33,036
- Distance: 23.85