Nepal is probably the ultimate destination for climbers. With 8 of the world’s highest peaks, that is peaks over 8,000m, and of course the highest in the world, Mt Everest, Nepal is every mountaineer’s dream. This popularity started of course when Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the top of Everest in May 1953. Although there had been attempts earlier, this achievement drew world attention to the country. With over 1,300 peaks above 6,000, and with over 300 of them available to climb there is something for every level of mountaineer. Naturally no one starts at the top, so to speak! We find the majority of climbers coming to Nepal have at least some experience of Alpine climbing in other countries. For those who have trekked extensively at altitude, Nepal has some great trekking peaks where those with little or no climbing experience can cut their teeth.
In general, trekking and climbing peaks are regulated by the Nepal Mountaineering Association who issue permits for climbing all peaks up to the height of 6,400m (Mera Peak). For expedition peaks, the permits are issued by the Department of Tourism. There are currently 326 peaks open for climbing, which include 20 which are royalty free. Of these peaks, 22 have the condition that they are open for only Nepalese expeditions or joint Nepalese/ foreign expeditions. And there must be at least 3 team members who are Nepalese. Again there are further rules applying to 4 expedition peaks which require the peak to have already been submitted by a Nepalese team or a joint Nepalese/ foreign team.
Yes the rules can be a little confusing but we at Magical Nepal can keep you on the right track and obtain the correct permits for your team! In this section we provide you with information on some of our favourite expedition peaks.